I have a Jacobsen 122/11 blade 22" width / Honda GX120 hybrid/ low hours. - ,email is jy71163@gmail.com. DFW area. Can send pictures.

 

PICT of my Jacobsen for sale

 

PICT of my Jacobsen for sale

What is the asking price for this mower?

 

I'm a little worried about the lack of feedback to the post!? :shock:

I'll go take a look and see how it is in person. Any feedback would help a lot.

 

Jake 526 owner here. The reason you will not see a lot of buzz about these is because Toro and JD are recognized names by homeowners everywhere. Unless you work in the turf industry, you probably never knew Jacobsen makes mowers.

They are excellent machines, the 500 series is very simple mechanically. Jake is also very easy to get parts for, OEM and aftermarket. You can order direct from the OEM which you cannot with JD or Toro.

 

@MasterMech Thanks for the feedback! I'll be the proud owner Monday!

I went to look at it and it didn't cut paper 100% and the Honda hasn't run in 2 years. Neither of these things worried me too much since the machine appears to be brand new. Hopefully a carb job and backlap and I'm up and running.

I'll keep you posted.

 

I have a PGM 22 and I love it. Things I dislike that I've seen implemented better on other brands:

- The reel/bedknife adjustment is super finnicky. I've seen the "click" system on the Toros and it looks much, much easier. Maybe the newer Jakes have a better system than mine.

- The lack of a kickstand. Mine (and others I've seen) don't have a kickstand on the back; they have a rear bar that you can push the handle flat to the ground and it gets just enough leverage to lift the transport wheels off the ground. Not ideal. Most Jakes have the kickstand though.

As mentioned, OEM parts are available online, which is great (albeit pricey). I consider them the equivalent of JD/Toro in build quality and I presume the newer models have more equitable functionality when it comes to the points I made above. Mine is a '97 and runs like a champ, so they're certainly good machines.

Edit: Looking at the photos, that one definitely has a kickstand and it looks like the reel/bedknife adjustment is at least different than mine. I can't deduce how it functions on that model without messing with it, but I'd say that any changes to the system would be for the better.

 

Yeah jake does have the click-style reel-to-bedknife adjustment on current models.

 

Well, I pulled the trigger!

















Ended up getting it for $640. Everything looks fairly new and unused even with it being a 2005 model.

It seems wider than I need, but excited for the challenge and to get started reel mowing! Will start with the tank and carb to get the motor running.

Anything else I should be particularly worried about before trying it out?

 

Just looking at it, you might need to get that reel professionally sharpened and then maintain it with a backlap rather than just trying to backlap it into serviceable shape. It looks pretty dinged up at the moment.

I've got zoysia, which I think is more temperamental in regards to cut quality than bermuda, but I ripped the crap out of my grass when I first got my reel (my neighbors asked if my yard was going dormant in early August because the tops of all the blades turned so brown that it looked dead). Got it sharpened and adjusted and it has been perfect ever since.

 

New carb, and fires up on the second pull! Gotta love the Honda.

Now on to dealing with the reel and bed knife.

 

New carb, and fires up on the second pull! Gotta love the Honda.

Now on to dealing with the reel and bed knife.

I have an old 526A. Your reel and bed knife are to be taken care of. I don't know why your right side bedknife cap looks damaged/ somehow patched with a bolt?
Do a full lub (You will not find some of the nipples as per the manual, but don't worry).
If you have a lot of going around obstacles, cancel the operator presence lever. It will allow to throttle down and fine tune your speed. Other option will be to disengage roller and push, but... less efficient. 1st option will wear clutch faster.
It must fire at first pull. It is an 120X. Remove and clean air filter element and carb cap. Pour some Seafoam for at least one season, every time you refill.
To change oil, dont use the 'oil drain' plug. Put it on the stand and drain from the rear oil filler cap. Fill and check by the front cap.

 

@Babameca

Thanks for the guidance. I dropped the machine off at the local shop to have the reel sharpened and lapped to the bed knife.

Will lube and change oil when I get it back.

How would I cancel the presence lever?

I did walk the unit around the yard without cutting and the walk speed is a little too fast for me. Is there a way to keep the throttle and reel speed up while slowing the walk speed? Is that why you recommended just pushing with the self prop disengaged? It would be nice to not loose that feature if possible.

 

@jbow03
Reel speed and drum rotation are locked. it is a belt driven unit. You can only vary the ratio on machine with electric motor driven reel. Use the engine RPM lever on the right to keep the engine at minimum. My unit came with the engage cable over tightened so machine was moving ahead even with a light push to the operator lever. It semi engages the clutch and makes the machine move at very low speed while still allowing reel rotation. The other way around maybe to open the plastic cover that hides all cables and lock the presence lever 'open' all times.
If you want simply to push, there are 2 small steel switches on the right side of the machine for the reel or the drum to be disengaged. If drum is disengaged, reel still turns and you cut. I use the opposite (disengage the reel only) to transport/move the mower between parts of the lawn. Spinning the reel 'on dry' may cause excessive heat and wear.
And last, while adjusting reel to bed knife, cutting paper is ok but by the book I use a feeler gauge. Reel should NOT touch the bed knife. It is well explained in the manual.
Once you get used to it, you will love your new mower.