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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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When I used a rotary mower and I would change the blade or sharpen it, I wouldn't use a torque wrench and just make sure the bolt was nice and tight. I've never had any issues with it coming loose or being difficult to remove. When tightening the bolt down, just don't go overboard with it and make sure it's torqued to German specifications "gutentight" :D
 

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The direction of the screw threads are usually such that as you mow the threads get tighter. They need to be tight enough so that there is no slippage. Then they will tighten as you mow. I always put some copper anti-sieze on the bolts. You could also use almost any grease. I have always used a torque wrench and the torque specs are always unbelievably tight. (118 ft lbs on my Hustler , 120 on the orange monster) That is hard to do without an extension, while you are also keeping the blade from turning with a two by four. (for a fat old geeb like me)

The Hustler has "Belleville spring washers" which have a very visible dish shape. They have to be put on correctly (obvious)
and when you torque them down they mash flat and put a lot of locking force on the spindle. The Hustler spindles have a large almost three inch diameter flat for the blade top to bear on. Way overkill compared to any residential mower I have ever changed blades on.

As previously mentioned torque wrenches have gotten cheep. But I think a half inch drive breaker bar would be good enough. Half inch drive is important.
 
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