[BXMurphy]

I maintained a beehive until it fell to colony collapse disorder (CCD). This is a pretty big deal as 1/3 of everything you put into your mouth requires pollination by bees.

It is thought that neonicotinoids plays a major role in killing honeybees. This article from UMass County Extension speaks to grub control with respect to our honeybees.

https://ag.umass.edu/home-lawn-garden/fact-sheets/grub-control-in-lawns-neonicotinoids-bees

I am thinking of putting down some milky spore. I understand it is not allowed everywhere.

If you cannot use milky spore, other members on TLF will point you to an article from Michigan State University (MSU) as the best guide for grub control: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

These TLF members are correct. It is imperative to understand which chemicals do what. Some chemicals kill grubs on contact. Other chemicals set up a preventive "force field" that typically lasts four months.

Please carefully study the MSU article to learn about your options. Please read the UMass article to become familiar with how grub control can impact honeybees. Above all, please ACCURATELY DIAGNOSIS your turf problem before applying chemicals with reckless abandon.

 

[Green]

Imidacloprid (trade name: Merit; probably the most common NeoNic) is already partially outlawed here in CT...you cannot buy it anymore for residential use, unless you have a restricted use class of Pesticide License. Chlorantraniliprole (trade names: Grubex1; Acelepryn) is so effective and non-toxic to most non-marine life, that it's really an easy decision to use it even if you live where you can still get the Merit.

Here is an article from the CT Agricultural Experiment Station on this topic: http://www.conngardener.com/images/neonics.pdf
It also discusses a brand new product, GrubGone, which is a specific strain of BT bacteria. It's registered in a few states already, including CT and CA. The author also discusses that in the future, development of resistance to Chlorantraniliprole is theoretically possible. I would love to be able to rotate products, but GrubGone is so new that it's extremely expensive at the moment (3-4x the price of Chloprantranilipole). Hopefully the price will drop soon.

 

[Greendoc]

Dylox(Bayer 24 hr Grub Killer) is also virtually non toxic to bees. Many years ago, it was sold to Alfalfa and Clover farmers as a spray for application to their crop in bloom, It would kill the caterpillars damaging he crop without hurting the bees. Dylox is also very rapidly broken down after application. You will not find it in soil a month later. Other than an issue with it being toxic to shrimp and shellfish if allowed to run off into water, I consider Dylox to be fairly harmless to the environment.

 

[Jconnelly6b]

I did 1x milky spore treatment last year (granular) and 2x scanmask nematode and saw no grub damage. A few grubs here and there of course, but no damage. It was a pita to apply liquid with 2 gallon hand can. With 20volt this year should be easier.

I do realize I probably have just been lucky and it had little to do with the treatments but I'm going to try to get this year and hope for the best.

The soon to be wife doesn't much like chemicals applied to the lawn, but won't go for non natural insect treatments at all.

 

[SimonR]

As mentioned, Acelepryn/ grubex is what you should be using in a domestic situation. All other insecticides carry a schedule or signal warning; Acelepryn does not. In Australia it's not even labelled a poison. It gives up to 6 months systemic control over immature root foraging larvae and army worm caterpillars. Very popular for use around schools, parks and other public areas due to its very low toxicity.

Application timing is critical for your white curl grubs and beetle larvae at peak egg hatch. One app for season long control.

Safe around pets and animals. Expensive but a no-brainer IMO.

 

[Green]

As mentioned, Acelepryn/ grubex is what you should be using in a domestic situation. All other insecticides carry a schedule or signal warning; Acelepryn does not.

As long as it's allowed in a region, and the property isn't near water or doesn't drain to a place that directly supplies a body of water, it's pretty safe to use. There is even evidence that after using it for a few years, it builds up in the soil. And with the half life being very long, this might provide protection for years to come (note to researchers out there: more study on this topic is welcome).

That said, there is the potential, just like with anything else, that resistance can develop over time if it's used every year, even though last time I checked there weren't any documented cases yet. I would really like to be able to alternate Chlorantraniliprole with the new Btg biological product; I'm hoping the cost of the latter comes down soon!