[g-man]

This is just a friendly reminder to buy your grub control product. I prefer chlorantraniliprole and it goes down at green up. I went to Menards the other day and totally forgot about it.

If grubs have been a problem in the past or if you dont want any risk with them, then spring is the time to apply a grub preventer. GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole) is my choice. Apply as soon as your lawn greens up. A second product is imidacloprid, but there are studies that link it to environmental issues (bees). MSU Grub Article

 

[Green]

Thanks, G-man. Imidacloprid is now restricted use in some states (such as CT). Only licensed applicators can purchase it in 2018, and going forward. I think that's a step in the right direction, personally.

Just want to add, I'm researching a new product and might use it instead of chlorantraniliprole this year. It's brand new, and a totally different method of action. I'll have more to say in hopefully a week, and will edit/update this post then. Sorry for the suspense.
-------------------------------------------------------

Edit: I'm going to post the information about the new grub control product now. I will not be purchasing it this year, as their supply is very limited and the cost is going to be 3-4x that of chlorantraniliprole this year. But if you're looking for a biological product and are ok with $160 for a 40-lb bag, I'd jump on it!

It's called Grub Gone G.

Here is the link to information: http://greenearthagandturf.com/biological-grub-control-phyllom-grub-gone-bt.shtml

It's registered in 7 states right now, including CT, MA, NJ, and NY...as well as DE, CA, and OR.

 

[osuturfman]

Thanks, G-man. Imidacloprid is now restricted use in some states (such as CT). Only licensed applicators can purchase it in 2018, and going forward. I think that's a step in the right direction, personally.

Just want to add, I'm researching a new product and might use it instead of chlorantraniliprole this year. It's brand new, and a totally different method of action. I'll have more to say in hopefully a week, and will edit/update this post then. Sorry for the suspense.

Is it a bio-insecticide? There's some really cool stuff coming down the pike with ecto-parasitic nematodeas that attack the digestive system of grubs. Interesting times for sure.

 

[jessehurlburt]

Hi G-man-

I had grub damage last year. Can you help school us, G-man? My understanding is you can apply a product to prevent the eggs from becoming grubs in May/June, or you can use a different product to kill them if they are already grubs (July/Aug). Is this true? What does your grub prevention plan look like? Can a single app timed right take care you all season long?

Thanks,
Jesse

 

[Green]

Thanks, G-man. Imidacloprid is now restricted use in some states (such as CT). Only licensed applicators can purchase it in 2018, and going forward. I think that's a step in the right direction, personally.

Just want to add, I'm researching a new product and might use it instead of chlorantraniliprole this year. It's brand new, and a totally different method of action. I'll have more to say in hopefully a week, and will edit/update this post then. Sorry for the suspense.

Is it a bio-insecticide? There's some really cool stuff coming down the pike with ecto-parasitic nematodeas that attack the digestive system of grubs. Interesting times for sure.

Yup. Not nematodes, though. I need to call up the company before I post anymore. I don't want to give wrong info out. I might PM you in the meantime. Btw, thanks for telling my about chlorantraniliprole before the 2015 season, when it was fairly new!

 

[Green]

Hi G-man-

I had grub damage last year. Can you help school us, G-man? My understanding is you can apply a product to prevent the eggs from becoming grubs in May/June, or you can use a different product to kill them if they are already grubs (July/Aug). Is this true? What does your grub prevention plan look like? Can a single app timed right take care you all season long?

Thanks,
Jesse

Before G-man replies, have you read through that article yet? There are others out there, too, but this one gets updated yearly. It answers a bunch of your questions and only takes about 20 min to read.

 

[g-man]

Like Green said, the article will explain way better than I can.

The short version: Bugs come out of the ground in the summer and go crazy finding a partner to lay eggs everywhere. Those eggs develop from summer, thru winter and into adults in the spring/summer to come out a lay eggs. That's the cycle. By applying a preventive now (spring), it provides a soil barrier to prevents the eggs from developing once the big grubs/bugs lay the eggs. The preventive product will not kill the big grubs only the eggs and it last months in the soil.

There is another product that kills big grubs (and a bunch of other stuff) within 24hrs, but offers no long term protection. It last days in the soil.

 

[jessehurlburt]

Totally missed the link in the quote. My bad...

 

[Green]

Totally missed the link in the quote. My bad...

I almost did, too.

 

[Ware]

I received this in an email. Wanted to share in case anyone here is interested in this free webinar today from 12:00 PM - 1:00 PM CDT.

Myths and facts surrounding white grubs attacking turf
Dave Shetlar, Ph.D., Ohio State University

There are many myths surrounding white grub populations.

All white grubs are the same, cold winters are hard on grub populations and grubs preferred food source is turfgrass roots. All are commonly held beliefs by turfgrass managers, and all are patently false, says Dave Shetlar, Ph.D., professor emeritus at Ohio State University and a world-renown entomologist.

In reality, not all grub types behave the same way and not all are equally susceptible to one pesticide or another; white grub populations are much more at risk during mild winters compared with harsh ones; and roots and crowns actually are just in the way as the pests launch their assault on the surrounding thatch and soil organic matter.

In this TurfNet University Webinar, Dave Shetlar, Ph.D., professor emeritus at Ohio State University will dispel these and other common misconceptions about white grubs.

The presentation will include feeding habits of grubs, how they are affected by environmental factors; how they interact to commonly used turf pest insecticides; and more.

Registration: Click here

Cost: Free for everyone

 

[Pete1313]

@Ware, Turfnet member as well! :thumbsup: If you can't watch the webinar live, it will be archived to watch whenever you want. New this year, ALL webinars are now free to view after you setup a free member account.

 

[social port]

I was under the impression that many grub control products are non-selective--meaning, among other things, that application of a grub control product might kill those kind worms squirming in the soil. Do I have this wrong? Perhaps this is only true of curative insecticides?

 

[jessehurlburt]

I read the linked article and have a question. If I had grub damage last year and my lawn has never had any type of preventative or curative products applied, I would want to apply a curative, now, like trichlorfon, then apply a preventative in May/June, like chlorantraniloprole to take care of new eggs, correct? I was under the impression they only fed in late summer, so when I read they start feeding again in March, I am now eager to take care of the adult grub population. Is a grub the same thing as a european chafer? Can anyone ID this little fellow?

Thanks guys!

 

[g-man]

I'm not sure what that fellow is.

Per the article, apply chlorantraniloprole at green up (April?). If you are seeing adults grubs now, then I would apply the curative (Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus)

 

[thytuff1]

@jessehurlburt That insect in the photo is not a grub. Before a decision is made to apply a curative insecticide like carbaryl (sevin) , or trichorfon you should do a comprehensive scout of your lawn. Check your lawn for weak, dying, or thin areas. If they are present then dig down to a depth of 1.5 - 2.0" into the root zone. If it is really hard to dig this area up than most likely you don't have a grub problem. Even after digging up the grass ( try for a square foot patch or so) and you see only a few white grubs than again most likely your lawn will be able to tolerate the grub population. However if at the margins of those weak or damaged areas the turf is dislodged relatively easy and you find white c-shaped grubs in a relatively high density (more than 5-6) than a curative application of the above chemistries may be appropriate. Make sure that whatever product that you purchase contains those chemistries on the label, and follow all label guidelines when applying the product. Having a properly calibrated spreader or sprayer is essential for this step, and thins like "I just spread it out at a good rate" or "the rate looks fine" or " I keep spreading/ spraying this area until the bag is gone" IS NOT properly calibrating your equipment. Also make sure that whatever product you use for a curative application is watered in!!

 

[Green]

Quick aside. @thytuff1 , as a pro, you always bring up some good, basic tips that we home lawn types tend to ignore out of laziness or being unsure, but shouldn't!

My strategy for spreader applications has typically been to measure out the exact amount of product for the specific area using a scale. (I broke my 15K area into at least 6 smaller zones), and then spread it (uncalibrated) on that specific zone, using the lowest practical spreader setting that seems to not negatively impact the distribution pattern for that particular product. I prefer to make at least 2-direction passes, at perpendiculars. I wouldn't be surprised if most people on the forum are using similar techniques.

It's probably not as good as calibrating, and it takes a lot of work each time to weigh out product one scoop at a time...I'm open to a better or more efficient method (involving proper spreader calibration), though.

 

[g-man]

+1 to green. I do the same approach but with one 5k zone.

 

[Green]

I just updated the 2nd post in this thread.

I also have a couple of tips for anyone purchasing chlorantraniliprole.

1. Scotts Grubex 1 often has rebates available this time of year, if you purchase at an independent store. You may have to search online for them.

2. Another option is the pro version, called "Acelepryn" and available at professional dealers such as SiteOne. It tends to be competitive in pricing or a bit lower than Scotts Grubex, but it's the exact same thing...just a different formulation and usually a lower strength (.067%), so the application rate is slightly different. Note, this is NOT the same as Acelepryn G or the liquid products...which are highly concentrated insecticides, and not used for mere grub prevention. You're looking specifically for 0.067 to 0.08% concentration chlorantraniliprole. A 50-lb bag of 0.067% AI will cover 14.6K area for grub prevention at 3.42 lbs/K application rate.

To recap: Either Scotts Grubex 1 (0.08% chlorantraniliprole) at 2.87 lbs/K
or Acelepryn (0.067% chlorantraniliprole) at 3.42 lbs/K
Best applied between early April and mid May.

 

[Budstl]

Anyone have any experience with this?
https://www.domyown.com/milky-spore-lawn-spreader-mix-p-1807.html?rrec=true

 

[gene_stl]

I caught most of the Webinar listed above, (which you can listen to online now) and if I am remembering correctly he said that each milky spore species was specific to a particular grub so it was not one size fits all.