[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

Hi All!

I got a weedopolis going on in my yard. But I do have a plan. I have watched a few vids from 'The Lawn Care Nut' for tips on what to do. I am posting to get advice and to correct my plan of action.

Zone 9a - South Louisiana

First let's get pics of the grass out of the way. Here

http://imgur.com/w0rxq

is the larger photo. Here

http://imgur.com/EISN5

is the closeup.

If this St. Augustine or Zoysia? Or something else?

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MKB67Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TAkLAbT48FCYK weed killer to apply to the whole yard. I also have 2,4 D for follow up treatments.

OK. Here is the plan:

1) Spray for weeds
2) Cut grass extremely low, bag clippings
3) Loosen grass that is left with rake
4) Seed - mid March. Water at least 1" per week
5) Milorganite - Mid April
6) Weed, water and cut, treat for weeds in spots with 2,4 D

Is this a good plan? How can it be improved?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Movingshrub]

Does anyone else see a bunch of dormant Bermuda in the photo? I don't see how there could be green st aug and dormant Bermuda at the same time.

 

[Ware]

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Photo # 1 I can identify the following

• Either Dollarweed, Dichondria, or creeping charlie
• Wild Onion
• Carpetgrass or St. Augustine
• dormant bermuda

Photo #2, I can identify

• poa annua
• St. Aug
• dormant bermuda
• I can't make out what the 5 pointed leaves are. Looks like blackberry leaves to me, but I'm pretty sure that's not it

Your AI in the weed killer you purchased is : 2.127% MCPA, 8.658% 2,4-D, 0.371% Dicamba

Those herbicides should take care of a majority of the weeds that you've got.

What I would HIGHLY suggest is that you go to the big box store of your choice, or a local Site One if you have one, and get a granular PreEmergent and put it down PRONTO. The winter weeds that you see now are going to be gone in a few weeks, and then you'll be battling the summer weeds. The PreM that you put down will help curb the weeds that will be germinating soon, and you'll be battling those for the summertime. If you can remove some of the weed pressure off of the grass that you already have, you'll have a better chance at success for getting a thicker lawn. Once the bermuda comes out of dormancy, you'll be better able to assess how much grass you have, vs. weeds. And we'll help you through the summertime to help fend off the winter weeds that will be coming again later on this year. It's much more cost-effective to have a PreM treatment plan than spraying PostEmergent herbicides on your lawn that didn't get treated.

 

[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

I truly appreciate your answer! I have been told it is too late for my area for a pre-emergent as the soil temps are too high.
You REALLY sound like you know what you are talking about.
Can you clarify on that subject?

 

[Ware]

...I have been told it is too late for my area for a pre-emergent as the soil temps are too high...

It may be late, but it is never too late. Applying pre-e now will help with any weeds that will continue to germinate through the summer months.

 

[Movingshrub]

...I have been told it is too late for my area for a pre-emergent as the soil temps are too high...

It may be late, but it is never too late. Applying pre-e now will help with any weeds that will continue to germinate through the summer months.

Concur. Sooner the better. Prodiamine, Dithiopyr and Pendimethalin are all viable pre-em options.

 

[Wes]

OK. Here is the plan:

1) Spray for weeds
2) Cut grass extremely low, bag clippings
3) Loosen grass that is left with rake
4) Seed - mid March. Water at least 1" per week
5) Milorganite - Mid April
6) Weed, water and cut, treat for weeds in spots with 2,4 D

Is this a good plan? How can it be improved?

Thanks in advance!

First of all, welcome to TLF! Feel free to make yourself comfortable and settle in. Most of us are a bunch of lawn nerds who probably have an unhealthy obsession with grass. If you have a question, don't hesitate to ask it.

I really like your plan, and even more, I like that you have one. Just remember, your lawn is at the mercy of nature and you should be flexible with timing. Over time, you will learn to "read the lawn" and let it tell you what it needs, but at first that might seem impossible.

The only issue I see with the plan below is step 4. I agree with others here that you appear to have a mix of St. Augustine and Bermuda. Both of these grasses spread through rhizomes and stolons. Therefore you really don't need to seed the yard.

Also, while we are on the topic, most people really don't like the look of these two grasses mixed. That said, I do have areas of my own lawn where these two grasses grow side by side, but I do my best to keep them from growing together. It's your lawn, so you can decide if you like one grass over the other, or if you like the look of them mixed. Once you decide which grass (or grasses) you want to keep, we can help you with that as well.

 

[Mightyquinn]

OK. Here is the plan:

1) Spray for weeds
2) Cut grass extremely low, bag clippings
3) Loosen grass that is left with rake
4) Seed - mid March. Water at least 1" per week
5) Milorganite - Mid April
6) Weed, water and cut, treat for weeds in spots with 2,4 D

Is this a good plan? How can it be improved?

Thanks in advance!

First of all, welcome to TLF! Feel free to make yourself comfortable and settle in. Most of us are a bunch of lawn nerds who probably have an unhealthy obsession with grass. If you have a question, don't hesitate to ask it.

I really like your plan, and even more, I like that you have one. Just remember, your lawn is at the mercy of nature and you should be flexible with timing. Over time, you will learn to "read the lawn" and let it tell you what it needs, but at first that might seem impossible.

The only issue I see with the plan below is step 4. I agree with others here that you appear to have a mix of St. Augustine and Bermuda. Both of these grasses spread through rhizomes and stolons. Therefore you really don't need to seed the yard.

Also, while we are on the topic, most people really don't like the look of these two grasses mixed. That said, I do have areas of my own lawn where these two grasses grow side by side, but I do my best to keep them from growing together. It's your lawn, so you can decide if you like one grass over the other, or if you like the look of them mixed. Once you decide which grass (or grasses) you want to keep, we can help you with that as well.

Very well said Wes :thumbup:

One thing I would like to add that might help you decide one way or the other is that bermuda will spread and fill in areas A LOT faster than St. Augustine will with proper care.

 

[Movingshrub]

I concur with @Wes . I'd hold off on the seed. Both St Aug and Bermuda will spread and fill in open spots. Plus, seeded versions may not match your existing type of Bermuda or st aug, and would look out of place.

 

[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

Awesome info!
I am spraying this evening. I will be away for most of the weekend but should have Sunday afternoon free.
Could you recommend a brand of granular pre-emergent to put down?
Also, should I wait a period of time between spraying for weeds and putting down the pre-emergent?
Thanks again!

 

[Ware]

Could you recommend a brand of granular pre-emergent to put down?

There are some granular pre-e's available at Lowe's under the Sta-Green Crab-Ex label. Look for the active ingredient of Prodiamine or Dithiopyr in the small print analysis on the bottom corner of the bag.

Alternatively, a Site One, Ewing or Keeling Co. would probably have a granular pre-e with one of the active ingredients mentioned above.

 

[Movingshrub]

I wouldn't get caught up in terms of brand, but rather chemical.

Prodiamine (also called Barricade) is widely suggested. Dithiopyr (also called Dimension) is worth considering due to you being in the southern US and it will pick off early stage crabgrass, but it usually costs a few dollars more. I've used both. Also, I'd get something that has no nitrogen. As an example, the bag might say be 0-0-7 in terms of the fertilizer content. The Potassium out of the N-P-K is basically just a carrier for the chemical you're applying.

 

[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

Ok thanks! I'll get something down Sunday.
Yard is sprayed. Here's to hoping.
Will cut Sunday also beforehand.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Ok thanks! I'll get something down Sunday.
Yard is sprayed. Here's to hoping.
Will cut Sunday also beforehand.

One thing to keep in mind is that you need to have your PreM watered into the ground, optimally with 1/2" of rainfall or irrigation. It has to be in the soil in order to prevent weed germination. No time like the present to get it down!

 

[Movingshrub]

Also, if you put down your pre-em, probably s good idea to hold of cutting the grass until it rains.

So, if your grass needs to be cut, do that first.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Oh, I'll throw this out there too, be sure and broadcast some into your neighbor's yard, about 2' off your property line, to establish the "weed-free" zone of domination.

 

[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

I wouldn't get caught up in terms of brand, but rather chemical.

Prodiamine (also called Barricade) is widely suggested. Dithiopyr (also called Dimension) is worth considering due to you being in the southern US and it will pick off early stage crabgrass, but it usually costs a few dollars more. I've used both. Also, I'd get something that has no nitrogen. As an example, the bag might say be 0-0-7 in terms of the fertilizer content. The Potassium out of the N-P-K is basically just a carrier for the chemical you're applying.

Thanks for the info, though I am having a hard time finding something with those ingredients at my local shops(Home Dept, Lowes and Steins)

 

[mr_pierre_boudreaux]

There is this available, but have neither those chemicals.

 

[Movingshrub]

Home Depot will sometimes carry a Lesco brand 19-0-7 with dimension but it's like $45 a bag, and you don't really want nitrogen this time of year.

What city/state are you in? We can probably help you locate a store that will have the right product.