[Tellycoleman]

So my lawn if finally getting thick from all the PGR i am applying.
What do you guys do to get the granules down under the canopy?
Im not gonna drag mat it after every fert application.

Maybe use a low N fertilizer to decrease burn?

 

[rhanna]

I think Ware had a recent video talking about greens milorganite where the prills are smaller for that reason.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWH_ZMo8qgo&t=4s

 

[Greendoc]

So my lawn if finally getting thick from all the PGR i am applying.
What do you guys do to get the granules down under the canopy?
Im not gonna drag mat it after every fert application.

Maybe use a low N fertilizer to decrease burn?

That is the reason for going all liquid. Other alternative is completely dissolving greens grade fertilizers.

 

[kur1j]

@Tellycoleman What HoC are you at and how long did it take for your grass to really fill in?

 

[Tellycoleman]

Nice I wonder are their any other types of small prill size ferts around?
If not I need to look for greens grade milorganite. @Ware where did you get it? and how is the smell?

@kur1j I maintain at 1/2 inch bench HOC. This year because of the crazy spring it took a little longer than I thought it would to green up. I didnt do a renovation this year so nothing really needed to fill in but a few dead spots which was common bermuda. I fertilize very heavy and water heavy until all spots are filled in.

 

[Ware]

Nice I wonder are their any other types of small prill size ferts around?
If not I need to look for greens grade milorganite. Ware where did you get it? and how is the smell?

There are some other greens grade products out there. I bought the Milo from Keeling Co. Looks like they have a couple locations near Nashville. I posted their part number for it here. My local branch guy said any branch should be able to get some, even if they don't normally stock it. The smell is the same. :thumbup:

 

[Ware]

I agree that spraying is another good option - especially since you have a Spreader-Mate now. I just haven't gone down that hole yet.

 

[dtillman5]

I got some lesco 6-3-0 biosolid greens grade in a 40 lb bag today. $17.50 per bag. Smallest prill I've ever seen. Looks like the greens grade Milo in @Ware video. Doesn't have as much iron but it went down easy.

 

[Dico112lr4]

Nice I wonder are their any other types of small prill size ferts around?
If not I need to look for greens grade milorganite. @Ware where did you get it? and how is the smell?

@kur1j I maintain at 1/2 inch bench HOC. This year because of the crazy spring it took a little longer than I thought it would to green up. I didnt do a renovation this year so nothing really needed to fill in but a few dead spots which was common bermuda. I fertilize very heavy and water heavy until all spots are filled in.

When you say very heavy how heavy are you talking? I've been giving my 419 1lb N per month but would like to kick it up a notch to get it to fill in.

 

[kur1j]

@Tellycoleman Sorry! Wrong terminology, fill-in vs thicken up. I seem to use them interchangeably. I have been cutting my lawn at .5" as well and it's noticeably thin in some areas. More so then when I was cutting it at 2" and it looked pretty full.

@Dico112lr4

I'm actually interested in this. How much is too much?

 

[Tellycoleman]

Ok I will tell you what I used last year to fill in my Yukon yard during renovation.
I alternate every 15 days I put down 1 pound nitrogen. During active growing season
1st app I use my 22-0-4 which is 50% slow release and 50% fast
15 days later I use Amonium Sulfate at the same rate.
This year , All spring dead spot Grew in quickly and I had to mow the lawn an ungodly amount to maintain at 1/2 inch. Every other day. I did it the entire year last year during my renovation.
But yeah I can't mow that much this year because I don't have the time. So I have cut back to 1pound N. Per month. I think @J_nick went over the 1pound rule with his renovation as well during grow in.

It's important not to push nitrogen for warm season lawns during the fall. I think it promotes snow mold. And prevents carbohydrate storage for the winter.
I'm not sure how much is to much. That's a good question for @thegrassfactor next Sunday.
I think Ive seen him apply more than 1 pound N per month as well. I know he "Hammers It!"

 

[Tellycoleman]

I agree that spraying is another good option - especially since you have a Spreader-Mate now. I just haven't gone down that hole yet.

Thanks for the link one location is about 10 min away.
One thing confuses me with liquid fertilizer. How can you have slow release liquid applications? I have seen some adverttised .
How is that possible with foliar applications?My brain can't figure it out?

 

[J_nick]

I never went over 1 lb of N per month. I think I did 4 applications of 1/2 lb N every 2 weeks then switched to 1# every 4 weeks of 100% slow release urea.

I'm having the same issue with the grass being as thick as carpet and the fert just sitting there on top even after an irrigation cycle. Within the next month I'll either find something greens grade or jump down the liquid rabbit hole.

 

[J_nick]

I agree that spraying is another good option - especially since you have a Spreader-Mate now. I just haven't gone down that hole yet.

Thanks for the link one location is about 10 min away.
One thing confuses me with liquid fertilizer. How can you have slow release liquid applications? I have seen some adverttised .
How is that possible with foliar applications?My brain can't figure it out?

I'd like an explanation of this also @Mightyquinn @Greendoc @thegrassfactor

 

[kur1j]

@Tellycoleman Thanks for the response! I'm actually interested in your question as well .

 

[Greendoc]

I agree that spraying is another good option - especially since you have a Spreader-Mate now. I just haven't gone down that hole yet.

Thanks for the link one location is about 10 min away.
One thing confuses me with liquid fertilizer. How can you have slow release liquid applications? I have seen some adverttised .
How is that possible with foliar applications?My brain can't figure it out?

There are two possible ways to have a liquid slow release. One way is with water soluble methylene urea. Brand names for this include Coron. This stuff is rather expensive and it does not last that much longer. Second way is with urea combined with nitrification inhibitors. I am familiar with UMaxx. This is solution grade Urea treated with an inhibitor. On clay soils, I have had an N application last into 2 months. Difference when applying is that grass does not get green in 7 days or less if that is the only N source.