[vettetrm]

I have never used a fungicide on my lawn but want to start this year. What should I use? What rates? How often? What/where are some good prices online? I am on a budget and have an acre so I need a larger amount at a good price.

 

[Turfguy93]

What diseases are you wanting to prevent?

 

[Greendoc]

What diseases are you wanting to prevent?

Next question is what kind of equipment budget do you have? The most expensive products do not truly work a darn if they are not applied according to their application parameters. Conversely, a less expensive product applied for efficacy, can really make a difference. For an acre, I want to see sprayers capable of applying at least 50 gallons of spray to that acre.

 

[vettetrm]

I have a hose end sprayer that I can reach every corner of my lot with. Endless gallons of water.

 

[vettetrm]

What diseases are you wanting to prevent?

Whatever normally affects turf type tall fescue. I don't know my funguses real well. I do get some though when the temperature gets up around 90. The grass always seems to recover in the fall without much loss though. I live on a river lot and the dew sets in early in the evening and the grass is wet until 11 AM most days in the summer even when we haven't seen rain in a long time. Also WV is hilly so no wind and high humidity.

I overseeded about 13K square feet last fall so that area has thick turf now so I am thinking the fungus may be worse there this year.

 

[440mag]

You have time so, you really want to educate yourself (don't mean to sound trite but, beyond what can possibly be contained in a thread like this). Based on my own experience (guess I'm a couple hours south of you) first rule for us transition zone folks is NO NITROGEN after mid April or before late September/October. I've found in my locale if I target preventing brown patch I very rarely have any other fungal problems occur. YMMV.

The unfab five: http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_unfab_five/

The Basics of Using Turfgrass Fungicides: https://www.turfmagazine.com/lawn-care/the-basics-of-using-turfgrass-fungicides/

However, I'm surprised that author does not stress the importance of educating ones self about the different Groups (or Class) into which fungicides are categorized (based on Mode of Action) and the very critical need to not apply any fungicide from the same Group or Class more than twice in a row. Otherwise you are setting yourself up for creating a fungicide resistant strain of fungus (think turf Franken-fungus)

See here: https://postimg.cc/image/7ert48kpr/

Generic and Trade Names of Common Turfgrass Fungicides: http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/managing-diseases/turfgrass-fungicides

Also, and with some exceptions, fungicides can very easily be the absolutely most expensive chemicals residentialists like us will ever encounter so, doing as much research as possible will not only prevent you wasting precious time but, also reduce the risk of unintentionally leaving a "loophole" for fungus to get through AND save you hard earned money!

Again, not to be a smart-*ss, you really, REALLY want to educate yourself as much as you can (use search function here, there have been some incredible contributions by very, very knowledgeable folks here and Some of them are sure to reply here But, no way possible they could re-type / re-hash some of the experience and guidance they have shared in past threads on this topic.

Best o' Success!

 

[ericgautier]

Try browsing this site to help narrow down the potential disease(s) you might run into during certain month(s):

Turfgrass Disease Identification

HOW TO USE THIS PROGRAM

• Select the Turfgrass type (host turf) that is affected.

• Select the Month(s) the grass is affected.

• Additional tabs with disease criteria will become available

• As you choose disease criteria the disease list (on far right) will change. The changes in the list reflect the diseases appropriate to your selection(s)

 

[kevreh]

...

Also, and with some exceptions, fungicides can very easily be the absolutely most expensive chemicals residentialists like us will ever encounter so, doing as much research as possible will not only prevent you wasting precious time but, also reduce the risk of unintentionally leaving a "loophole" for fungus to get through AND save you hard earned money!
...

Very true. I think when I bought Armada at Site One it was something like $80 for the powder form. While not cheap, this is enough to last me years assuming I don't exceed 2-3 applications a year and likely build up resistance, from what I'm told.

Site One has a lot of options. Granular will be more, but easier to apply. If you're buying online, granular will REALLY be more. Figure out what diseases you typically see in your area and identify the appropriate fungicide. Visit Site One if you can to see what they have for powders and granular, and ask them what most people use in your area.

Using a hose end sprayer isn't a good (acceptable?) way to go, too imprecise.

You can save $ by using a fungicide preventatively (lower dose) vs curatively (higher dose). This year I plan to apply in mid June and again mid July to see if that gets me through the worse part of summer.

 

[Turfguy93]

Treating an acre preventively is going to be quite expensive, maybe get some strobe 50wg as a curative treatment and try to dial in the cultural practices. Keeping the lawn lean during the hot humid months and on the drier side may help. And you could drag a hose or run the sprinklers early in the morning to knock the dew off.