[monty]

So when I fill a can of fresh gas I always stabilize immediately with standard sta-bil. I'm considering starting to stabilize with seafoam instead as it has other added benefits with keeping the engine clean.

What do you guys think? What do you stabilize with and when?

 

[Mightyquinn]

I have been using Sta-Bil for about 10 years now in my gas(93 octane) without a single issue in any of my equipment. I just leave the gas in the tank and I don't do anything special and it all starts up just fine after sitting over the Winter. Now, our Winters here are probably a lot more mild than they are up North but I can't see how the temperature would effect it too much.

 

[massgrass]

I've used a stabilizer in every drop of fuel that goes in my tractor, mower, trimmer, chain saw, pressure washer, snow blower, generator, etc. for as long as I can remember. I used Sta-Bil for many years without issue, but similarly switched to Seafoam about four years ago with the hope that it would provide additional engine lubrication and cleaning. It's quite a bit more expensive per gallon of gas than Sta-Bil, so that better be the case.

 

[pennstater2005]

I actually don't use fuel stabilizer anymore. I just always have fresh gas on hand and use it within a month or less. Then run everything empty in the fall, fill with a touch of Tru-Fuel, and run empty again.

 

[monty]

It's quite a bit more expensive per gallon of gas than Sta-Bil, so that better be the case.

I wouldn't say it's QUITE a bit more expensive. Maybe on a per oz basis, but you have to look at the total cost difference over time. Here are the numbers I've crunched. Prices are at my local Walmart:

Sta-bil (32 oz) 27.8¢ -- .4 oz/gal -- 11.12 ¢/gal
Seafoam (16 oz) 43.5¢ -- 1 oz/gal -- 43.5 ¢/gal

Seafoam costs about 4x as much as sta-bil

@5 gal/year seafoam is $2.18/year, sta-bil is $0.56/year. Difference of $1.62

@10 gal/year seafoam is $4.36/year, sta-bil is $1.12. Difference of $3.24

@20 gal/year seafoam is $6.48 more expensive.

If my math is correct than that is a negligible difference over the course of a year. Especially if I am getting added benefits with using seafoam.

 

[massgrass]

I wouldn't say it's QUITE a bit more expensive. Maybe on a per oz basis, but you have to look at the total cost difference over time. Here are the numbers I've crunched.

True, I should have qualified that it was several times more expensive but that the total dollar amount wasn't a big deal.

I actually don't use fuel stabilizer anymore. I just always have fresh gas on hand and use it within a month or less. Then run everything empty in the fall, fill with a touch of Tru-Fuel, and run empty again.

I'm a cheapskate, so I periodically fill a couple of five gallon cans at a time to take advantage of Stop & Shop/Shell gas rewards and get $1.50 off per gallon (I also put 10 gallons in the car). Stop & Shop has gift card gas point multipliers at certain times of the year (Father's Day, Christmas, etc.), and I buy enough Amazon/Lowe's/Home Depot to max it out. As a bonus, Shell has Top Tier gas while the Stop & Shop gas stations do not.

 

[ericgautier]

I've use both sta-bil and seafoam. I have no preference over the other and usually get whatever is BOGO. :thumbup:

 

[William]

I use Stabil Marine 360, not that it is needed, but I have a lot left over from my boating days.

 

[gene_stl]

I have never believed in fuel stabilizer, and often have had jerry cans with significant gas in them left over at the end of the season. I just used them the next year and have never had a problem. I would shake them up first in case the ethanol separated out. I have several bottles of Stabil which either came with gear or maybe I bought it thinking I would try it or whatever but I have never ever used it. It has been sitting around my garage forever and I never felt like I needed to use it.

An aircraft mechanic friend of mine told me about SeaFoam and I really don't believe in that stuff either. They claim its an enzyme but enzymes are proteins and don't mix very well with gasoline. I don't claim to be an expert (Degree in Biology and Chemistry) but it doesn't smell right to me. (how could an enzyme have evolved to be dissolved in gasoline?All the enzymes I know are water soluble but only to a small extent)

What I have started doing, since my move in January, is I have stopped filling my gas cans with Amoco/BP ultimate (which I always used since way back, 93 octane) and started filling them at the nearby airport which is closer now to my new digs. I use 100 octane Low Lead Aviation Gasoline. This has no ethanol or MTBE or any of that stuff in it. It has two milliliters of tetraethyl lead per gallon. So far I have only run it in the 25 horse Kohler and an Echo two cycle but they seem to love it. It is about $5.00 per gallon. Almost double what what BP Ultimate is ($2.80/gallon here I have always liked how Ultimate was/is water white) but only about a third of the $16 per gallon that the VPI non alcohol containing gasoline costs.( the lowest price I have seen on that is about $80 for a five gallon drum) Automotive Racing fuels seem to be similarly priced. Prior to this I never ever filled lawn gear with anything but Ultimate. I don't use Ultimate in my car. {;o) I have also tried to be conscientious about running things dry at the end of the year.

 

[FATC1TY]

So you don't like stabil to help with the ethanol, but buy ethanol free high end gas?

Sounds like two ways to fix an issue.

As someone who never cared- gas is gas is gas when it's for a lawn tool to me. I started to see them wearing out. Especially the two cycle stuff, despite spending money on good oil and blending.

I've since moved the higher octane mixes from the store and using stabil in my gasses for mowers and have without a doubt seen a change in the last 3-4 years in my equipment lasting longer, starting quicker, and running cleaner.

 

[JohnP]

So you don't like stabil to help with the ethanol, but buy ethanol free high end gas?

My takeaway from his post was buy the higher quality gas rather than using stabil.

My brain understood it as: If I had to choose between breaking my leg and then having a crutch to help with the broken leg, or not having a broken leg...I'd choose no broken leg.

Also I use an Ego mower (and trimmer, and blower, and edger and snowblower)...only used the old cheap gas mower that came with our house for a season and a half. The mower shop near our store winterized it for me for free...then when it died I replaced it with the Ego. I have zero experience winterizing or dealing with gas in my lawn tools.

 

[gene_stl]

I was just reporting what I do, and have done. I always have had lots of gasoline powered gear. When they started adding ethanol, I always thought it was one of the biggest and most expensive boondoggles, ever to hit the marketplace. And I would describe myself as an environmentalist tree hugger.
Of late I have had many mechanics repeatedly tell me, that ethanol is a problem for carburetor rubber and plastic parts, and have not missed the fact that they sell five gallon drums of ethanol free gasoline for 16-20 per gallon.(At lawn mower stores) I just ain't gonna pay that much for dinosaur juice. The kid at the airport who fuels airplanes, says a lot of people come and buy avgas for their lawn equipment.
I guess I don't believe in additives since I have never used them and haven't really had a problem. I actually was fairly well satisfied using Amoco Ultimate in my equipment. Their advertising said it had an extra refining step that made it water clear. I guess it is just that,I am susceptible to different advertising {;o) Part of it is I don't have a clear understanding of what Stabil does and how it works. (except see below) I also am pretty sure that running Ultimate in my lawn equipment was a complete and utter waste of money but I did it anyway :lol:
I have had headaches with carbs gumming up. Only on a Toro two cycle snow thrower that didn't get used for several years and I probably left gasoline in it. Running things dry seems to prevent most problems. I just started with the avgas so if a four cycle valve or ring sticks because of the lead I will report back.

You can find out more about what is in these products(ie Stabil and Seafoam)by checking their MSDS (material safety data sheet). Mostly they consist of petroleum distillate(s), naphtha, and Isopropyl alcohol which will help ethanol mix back with gasoline.

 

[pennstater2005]

There is a website. pure-gas.org, that has a map of ethanol-free gas stations. Of course, when I checked this morning it is down.....something wrong with the map. I remember when I was buying my Stihl blower, all the complaints were related to the fuel lines and carb problems. I wonder how much of that was due to gas w/ethanol sitting in them over the winter?

 

[Colonel K0rn]

There is a website. pure-gas.org, that has a map of ethanol-free gas stations. Of course, when I checked this morning it is down.....something wrong with the map. I remember when I was buying my Stihl blower, all the complaints were related to the fuel lines and carb problems. I wonder how much of that was due to gas w/ethanol sitting in them over the winter?

That's a cool website you linked, pure-gas.org, and its pretty fortunate that since I live near the coast, most boat owners use ethanol-free gas in their engines. The last thing you want is for you to have engine trouble caused by ethanol when you're out on the water.

 

[gene_stl]

Somebody told me about the pure-gas webpage when I decided to start using avgas. The nearest station they showed to my location (St. Louis) was down in Poplar Bluff which is about a three hour drive each way. I was surprised that there was nothing closer since we have plenty of hot rodders here in St. Louis.

BTW in my above post I erroneously was confusing SeaFoam with StarBright. Starbright is the one that claims to have an enzyme in it. ( I'll never believe it unless their formulation chemist calls me and gives me a detailed explanation of what it is)
Sea Foam just seems to be the usual stabilizer additive. I think these things just act like detergents or emulsifiers. The stabilize the phase of the gasoline and prevent separation. I don't think they do anything to prevent the formation of varnish which is a polymerization process. Just my guess.

 

[dfw_pilot]

Gene, so you are running 100LL in your mower? That's a pretty sweet idea. The Pure-Gas map shows nothing around me, but there are several airports I could buy 100LL from. On second thought, if you think Jet-A would work too, I could just siphon some whilst at work.

 

[gene_stl]

As you are well aware , Jet-A is more or less kerosene with low temp flow additives. Might run OK in diesels, maybe (I looked at some diesel powered stuff but it was all about $15,000 to start with, and diesels don't have a headache comparable to the ethanol headache. ) I also decided I might be too old a dog to learn new diesel tricks though anything with a diesel is probably a badass piece of gear.

100 LowLead might cause some spark plug fouling, but probably not since it isn't very much (two ml or grams per gallon approximately) It probably will do your exhaust valves and seats some good. It may or may not help or freeze piston rings. Probaly more likely lube the cylinder walls like zinc additives supposedly do

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraethyllead

Years ago (before the ethanol boondoggle) aircraft owners started using auto gas in airplanes and mostly it worked great. I think very few folks continue to do that. It was a big thing with lots of smart people looking into it. The hardest part was getting to the airport because needless to say the airport fixed base operators weren't crazy about it. A few "went with the flow" and started selling it themselves. I think that has mostly all gone away thanks to ethanol. In addition to carb parts there are also fuel tank bladders or sloshed/painted fuel tank linings to worry about.

 

[dfw_pilot]

I think I'll give it a shot. The LowLead that is, not the Jet-A.