SSE Dad said:
Hello, I'm new to the site and just bought my first reel mower. I found a used Fiskars StaySharp Max on FB Marketplace and I'm curious if anyone knows the HOC for the different settings. I know the lowest is 1 inch and the highest is 4 Inches but does anyone know the in between notch heights? Not sure if I'm ready to go to 1 inch just yet but want to start going lower.
I have been using a Fiskars StaySharp Max 18 for about 2 years. I love it.
It is the easiest to push manual reel that I have tried, and I had a Scotts and a Great States in the past.
Nothing wrong with the either the Scotts or Great States. I don't recall what happened to the Scotts, but I recall the weld on the bedknife broke on the Great States, or I would probably still be using it. Back then I was not familiar with backlapping, so I was taking it to a local guy to sharpen.
Here are the things I like about the Fiskars StaySharp Max 18:
1) The wheels are inside the cutting path of the reel, meaning, that all I have to do to get my overlaps right is to follow the wheel marks. And I don't get those ugly (to me) double wheel marks on the overlaps. It also means if you use the left side of the mower, you can get extremely close to obstructions like trees etc ( the HOC knob is on the right side, so you can't get so close).
2) The chain drive mechanism creates a mechanical advantage that makes it easier to push.
3) There is one knob to adjust the height of cut (HOC) and it is spring loaded, making it the easiest to adjust of any mower, of any kind, that I have ever had. I cut different areas at different HOC, and it is no hassle at all to change HOC.
4) It cuts at 4 inches and that is very helpful since tall grass is the enemy of any reel mower.
5) It has wheels, not a roller in the front and back. This minimizes the grass getting pushed down before getting cut.
6) It is light weight and I can cut in the rain, or on saturated turf. When the ground is saturated, I use the Fiskars to keep the height down so when it does dry out, I can cut with my greens mower without violating the 1/3 rule.
7) Build quality is very good, design is excellent. IMHO those Finn's know how to split the difference between Italian design, and German over engineering.
Here is the "IS WHAT IT IS" about the Fiskars StaySharp Max 18:
1) No rollers means no stripes. I love stripes, but I also enjoy the smooth monochrome look I get with the Fiskars.
2) You can set it from 1" to 4", but the sweet spot is between 1.5" and 2.5". If you try to go lower, and your lawn is not very level, yes it will bottom out and scalp. Cutting at 4" is very helpful, but if you try to maintain a 4" cut, you're going to get a lot of pushed over and uncut grass.
3) Backlapping is not difficult, but it requires quite a few steps. But it is not something I have to do often, once per season would probably be enough, but I like to do it two or three times, because I love a super sharp blade. It makes it easier to push and gives a nice clean cut (much better than my rotary mower no matter how sharp I get it).
4) AND YES, you still want to have a rotary mower, preferably with a bagger/catcher. If grass gets over 4.5", "catching up" with any reel mower is not going to be a pleasant experience. And reel mowers are no good at mulching leaves.
5) It is an 18" reel. I think the reason others go with 14" or 16" reels is to make it easier to push. The Fiskars compensates for this with the chain drive. The competitors with 20" reels will require fewer passes, but may be more difficult to push in comparable turf conditions.
6) It cost about $100 more new than most others. Manual reel mowers (regardless of model) are not for everyone, so the good part of that is you can usually find a used Fiskars in good condition for $100 or less. Just be prepared to backlap and adjust the reel. I purchased mine used, but IMHO, the extra $100 to get one new is very justifiable.
7) Like all reel mowers, you need to mow "before it needs it". Reel mowers work best when taking off about 1/4 inch and not more than 1/2 inch.