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It's not something I use often, but I have a Fiskars reel mower that I use on new grass for the first couple of months. When I do use it, I use the heck out of it.

A recent video on reel mowers by @GrassDaddy showed some damage to his grass from a reeel mower that was out of adjustment. I was always getting similar damage from the Fiskars, and assumed it was just the design of the thing causing it and nothing could be done about it. Some of the grass blades would get beat up just like the ones he showed in his video, and then brown patch would tend to set in.

The video made me wonder if there was anything I could do to figure out why it was happening, and then fix it. Since there are tons of reel mower experts here, I figured I'd ask!
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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@Green all reel work the same way. The reel blade collect the grass and push it against the bedknife to cut it. If the distance between the blade and the knife is too large, the leaf blade gets bent in-between them and not cut. This causes damage and ugly leafs (like what you saw on grassdaddy video. Proper adjustment will ensure it cuts (paper) and also that the reel doesn't strike the knife. Check your model for a YouTube video how to adjust it.
 

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I have the same mower and use it every 4-5 days to cut my whole lawn.

Take some printer paper and put it between the static blade at the back and the reel. Then roll the reel. If the paper is cut, then you should not need any adjustments. Make sure to check both the left and right sides of the reel. If the paper was not cut, then you need to adjust the two bolts on the backside of the reel mower, depending on which side needs to be adjusted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JoNDnepne8

Once you complete that, you shouldn't have those same issues that GrassyDaddy was having :thumbup:
 

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but just did this on mine. Amazing how out of alignment it was, basically just folding the paper over. Now cuts through like butter. Using on chisholm zoysia (palisides version 2.0), which is like cutting granite twice a week. Lowest I can get is 2" (3rd notch on the fiskars) while still being able to push. Unfortunately, serious washboarding at 2" so I'm in the market for a Toro GM1000/1600 or JD 180/220e. Becoming an expensive hobby, but wouldn't trade it.
 

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lostinclt said:
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but just did this on mine. Amazing how out of alignment it was, basically just folding the paper over. Now cuts through like butter. Using on chisholm zoysia (palisides version 2.0), which is like cutting granite twice a week. Lowest I can get is 2" (3rd notch on the fiskars) while still being able to push. Unfortunately, serious washboarding at 2" so I'm in the market for a Toro GM1000/1600 or JD 180/220e. Becoming an expensive hobby, but wouldn't trade it.
Fo zoysia, the heavier the mower the better. Lighter mowers will float on dense zoysia. You want something heavy enough to dig in and actually cut. That's why zoysia owners usually prefer trucut over McLane or California. I've heard the toros are extremely heavy so you should be fine there.
 

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Green said:
It's not something I use often, but I have a Fiskars reel mower that I use on new grass for the first couple of months. When I do use it, I use the heck out of it.
@Green (or others, too), are you still happy with your Fiskars mower for cutting new grass? I'm thinking of getting one for the initial cuts on our renovation this year and am wondering if you are still happy with it for that purpose?
 

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I have this mower and it is great for new grass.

I know this is supposed to be a no-contact design, but I adjusted mine so that the reel contacts the bed knife. It gives a little resistance to pushing, and makes a louder shearing sound, but thin baby grass can slide through close gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ken-n-nancy said:
@Green (or others, too), are you still happy with your Fiskars mower for cutting new grass? I'm thinking of getting one for the initial cuts on our renovation this year and am wondering if you are still happy with it for that purpose?
I haven't used it in months, but it will get limited use about a month from now. I never learned how to do maintenance on it...not yet. Only thing I do is blow it off when I'm done, and sometimes wipe the reel blades down at the end or beginning of a season, and spray silicone on them. I'm fairly happy with it. It doesn't cut everything (e.g. seedheads...not sure if that's an adjustment issue of some sort) but it's well-made and does a good job when you need it. You do have to pick up any nuts, sticks, and even blow leaves off before using it. I really like the wide height adjustment range.
 

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Sinclair said:
I have this mower and it is great for new grass.

I know this is supposed to be a no-contact design, but I adjusted mine so that the reel contacts the bed knife. It gives a little resistance to pushing, and makes a louder shearing sound, but thin baby grass can slide through close gaps.
Thanks, @Sinclair, for the recommendation for the mower for new grass, as well as the suggestion to run it a smidge tight when cutting baby grass.

I have a lead on a used one for sale locally that I'm going to go see this weekend. Anything known to break or wear out on this model?

Green said:
... it's well-made and does a good job when you need it. You do have to pick up any nuts, sticks, and even blow leaves off before using it. I really like the wide height adjustment range.
Thanks, for the feedback, @Green. Clearly, it won't become my regular mower -- with our lawn being nestled in the woods, sticks and leaves are already a concern with the rotary mower. Nancy will like the excuse to run the leaf blower even before mowing, though! (The backpack blower is her lawn toy!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will also add: I always look forward to the first gas powered rotary mow after using the reel, because of the mulching/suction ability. I only use the manual reel as long as necessary because it promotes matting and dampness, whereas the gas rotary reduces those things.
 
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