[wonder371]

Hi Soil Gurus!

I just received my first soil test back from Waypoint Analytical. Long story short, my landlord pays for anything purchased at Lowes or Home Depot - so I am trying to shop there when possible.

Here are my test results:

I found some gypsum at Lowes - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sta-Green-30-lb-Soil-Conditioner-Aerate-Soil/50189501

Although, I am having trouble locating Calcium Nitrate. The gypsum says it contains "soluble calcium". Is that the stuff I need? I am having trouble finding a website for sta-green to get more information or how much calcium is in each bag. Can someone help point me in the right direction?

 

[Ridgerunner]

I don't recognize that format. Is that a special test? Which test did you request?

 

[wonder371]

It's an A17 with written recommendation. I ideally wanted the S3M but the Waypoint Of San Jose, CA doesn't offer the S3M.

 

[g-man]

Their logic is to increase the calcium via gypsum without affecting the pH. I could see their logic. The fast acting you listed should work. I'm not sure of the difference with just regular gypsum, maybe it is just smaller prill size.

 

[Ridgerunner]

The A17 is for testing soilless media. My understanding is that they have developed methods/solution strengths for testing this media that are quite different from those used for field soils. That would help explain the unusual levels reported. I don't think there is any method to convert those numbers to the sufficiency levels we are used to targeting. There is a member here who is a certified soil analyst, can't remember his name, but maybe he could tell you if there is any way this test can be usefully applied. Sorry that you spent so much on a test that may be of no use to you.

 

[wonder371]

Really? The form I filled out asked me what it was for and it listed (and I checked) pre-existing sod/turf. Their recommendations sound like they are recommending for lawn.

 

[wonder371]

G-man, do you think I should do something other than recommended?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Really? The form I filled out asked me what it was for and it listed (and I checked) pre-existing sod/turf. Their recommendations sound like they are recommending for lawn.

The bottom line is: This situation is way above my pay grade. Just ignore my previous post, because I just don't know and shouldn't have commented.

 

[g-man]

I would apply the gypsum to up your calcium. I might consider some phosphorous to maintain (Olsen test). Maybe Milo would be a good option for it.

Other than that I don't see anything that prevents having a great lawn. Test next year using the TN site ($16.50).

 

[Ridgerunner]

Just to satisfy my own curiosity: @BenC any input?

 

[wonder371]

Another question I had is that their recommendation says to aerate then do gypsum. Is it okay to aerate now? I thought that was a fall thing? I found a local equipment place that rents aerators. This will be my first time aerating. Anyone have any good how-to write ups or YouTube videos they can share?

 

[g-man]

It is not necessary. It is nice since it gets it deeper into the soil.

But aeration should only be done when the lawn is actively growing. It stresses the lawn because it causes damage to the roots. It provides a way for the soil to dry up.

 

[Colonel K0rn]

Just to satisfy my own curiosity: @BenC any input?

I'll text him and ask him to chime in.

 

[BenC]

I'm not familiar with the specific test but am pretty sure they just did an ammonium acetate method. You can find ok guidelines for that method from UC Davis.
There is some stuff that doesn't look right though. I'm guessing you're on some pretty heavy clay. With a CEC of 38 it's either that or you're in a peat bog, that's pretty high. As high as it is your calcium is in the basement, will take you many years to get it up. Also, considering your CEC, your potassium is pretty low, add some sulfate of potash, pre dormancy, you should be able to find that in California. It's debatable, but I don't like your calcium:magnesium ratio. Do not apply any magnesium fertilizers. Calcium nitrate is usually labeled as CAN17 in California. The guaranteed analysis should be: N-P-K-then the fourth number would be the micronutrient followed by its symbol. As heavy as i'm Guessing your clay is, you should definitely be aerating annually and top dressing with sand if possible, apply gypsum every year. Phosphorous is fine above 17 ppm on that methodology.
If you can't find can17 just put more gypsum and do your regular nitrogen fertilizer plan

 

[wonder371]

Thank you all for your help with my soil test. The amazing feedback/advice is much appreciated.

I just got a whole bunch of stuff to fix some irrigation issues. It's going to take a good week or so to get it all installed, then I go away for the 4th of July Holiday. When I get back I think I'm going to rent an aerator, aerate, and do the recommended Gypsum and Calcium Nitrate treatments. I am planning on using the Sta-Green Gypsum & Southern Ag Calcium Nitrate, unless anyone has a different recommendation?

I'm hoping the 2-3 weeks, will give the lawn some time to recover from the recent weed b gon and 15-15-15 regimen I recently did.

In the meantime, is it safe to say I need to input "clay" as my soil type for the new Rachio I just purchased?