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First cut with GM 1000

15K views 63 replies 9 participants last post by  southernguy311 
#1 ·
So I couldn't wait to try my new GM1000. The rain had stopped and the ground only seemed kind of damp. I played with bedknife adjustment until I could cut paper clean (see other thread).

I fired it up first pull. Away from everything I engaged the drive. I have named my mower "bucking bronco". This thing will pull you straight out of your shoes. It took some getting used to.

I cut (scalp) at 0.500" but no one kill me: the dealer set the HOC and I did a poor mans check. Don't have a gauge yet.

I did a perimeter pass. I couldn't seem to get to the edge of the grass. It would leave a strip, I was scared to go closer and hit the reel on concrete, and in certain areas one side of the roller would have all the traction and try to pull me onto concrete. Not sure how to fix that.

On the straight passes, I could tell I was nervous about going to far (onto concrete or into fence) so I would lift the front and/or disengage the drive too soon leaving a patch.

I did a double cut (although not completely perpendicular) and as of this moment I'd have to give it a 4/10.

Maybe it will take some getting used to and some practice. Maybe I need to adjust some things or maybe my yard is just that lumpy. But honestly it didn't cut evenly. The cut within each row is smooth but you can see what I mean from pics. My son came running out screaming "what did you do?!? Your grass doesn't look good anymore!!!"







 
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#3 ·
Redtenchu said:
Haha, I remember using my greens Mower the first time... It takes time, you'll make some mistakes, it might even scare you a little. With (lots) more practice, you'll be a pro!
Any ideas on the unevenness (seen best in 3rd pic)? Maybe a triple cut going right at it? I would hate to triple cut every time I mow...

Also, I can't seem to keep this thing in a straight line :lol: It's going so fast that every bump makes it go all over the place. I tried to throttle down some, but I could barely go down before it would start to idle rough and engaging the drive would kill the engine...so I basically ran at 97% throttle :lol:
 
#4 ·
Oh and yes it did scare me to death a few times! 9/10 times when I pulled the lever to disengage the drive it would quit immediately, but every once in a while it would have a 1sec delay and keep trying to drive...I can only imagine my neighbors guts are hurting from laughing at me so hard.
 
#6 ·
Redtenchu said:
Haha, I remember using my greens Mower the first time... It takes time, you'll make some mistakes, it might even scare you a little. With (lots) more practice, you'll be a pro!
Agree. A greensmower is a handful at first. :thumbup:

A few thoughts...

You should be able to mow at less than 97% throttle. You could have some carb issues. Slowing it down is not only necessary at times, but it will really help build your confidence.

It's definitely scalped in places, so it looks worse than it is, and I definitely see some leveling work in your future.

Don't give up, and remember a reel mower is just one piece of the puzzle. This was cut with the same mower, but I can assure you it didn't look like this on day one. I think raldridge2315 really said it best here - there is no instant gratification in this journey. :thumbup:

 
#7 ·
I do plan on raising HOC now that it's scalped...but I'm not sure since it's not scalped evenly. Seems as though not starting with a good base will only make future problems more profound...I'm definitely going to level, but not sure how soon.

How do I check for carb issues?
 
#8 ·
So I went against the old saying that "the enemy of good is better". Once the rain stopped again and I saw some sunlight, I went out and finished one patch as well as cutting the main lawn in a different direction. I THINK it looks a little better. It definitely made more scalps/brown areas but I didn't want to have an uneven scalp as the foundation when I raise the HOC. On a plus note, I don't think I'll have to water for a week and a half with the rain from the last 2 days.







 
#11 ·
Well when I went out the second time it was a little better...maybe I just hadn't let it warm up enough. Still couldn't go all the way down (not sure if you're supposed to be able to or not) but I did go down maybe 50% and it was better. I was also getting the hang of operating it without killing myself.

However, there were a few times that I disengaged the drive lever and it kept going....i went in circles until I killed the motor. Started it up and it took off again :shock:
 
#13 ·
southernguy311 said:
99% certain that your first cut was basically surfing on top of the puffy grass. This happens to everyone at some point or another. My suggestion would be to anyone who can:

Scalp, verticut, scalp again
Don't think I have the resources to verticut...have to do some research. But do you think the lawn looks more even after the 3rd cut? (triple I guess :lol:)
 
#15 ·
Yea I do need to level. I'm sure this is a trend on this forum but my wife is ready to skin me after buying a fiskars mower, 2 spreaders, fert, a backpack sprayer, Celsius, penterra, and a greens mower. I'm thinking a leveling project will not go over well...
 
#17 ·
Ware said:
Sand for leveling is not all that expensive - it's just labor intensive.

Could you physically feel the mower bouncing around on he bumps?
I'd say yes but I don't have a gauge for how bouncy = unlevel. I feel like it was better the second time when the mower was going slower and not running across the lawn.

How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?
 
#21 ·
ahartzell said:
How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?
I have not had a chance to mow the yard with my GM 1000 yet because it's set to something low like 3/16. But in testing it I noticed the same symptoms as yours that I had to keep the throttle turned up full speed. No way I could mow my yard at those speeds. dfw_pilot directed this to me http://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=102#p1254 but I have not had a chance to try it.
 
#22 ·
thegardentool said:
ahartzell said:
How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?
I have not had a chance to mow the yard with my GM 1000 yet because it's set to something low like 3/16. But in testing it I noticed the same symptoms as yours that I had to keep the throttle turned up full speed. No way I could mow my yard at those speeds. dfw_pilot directed this to me http://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=102#p1254 but I have not had a chance to try it.
I'll try having a look at that little screw inlet thing...but mine definitely doesn't sound that way at idle. It just can't go more than like 60-70% full throttle. If I put throttle down as far as it will go then it dies. If I get it down to like 20% throttle and try to engage the drive/reels it dies. This could be normal for all I know...not sure how far you are SUPPOSED to be able to throttle down.
 
#24 ·
If you take off all your belts it might spin free(er), but there is too much belt tension on a walking greens mower. The guy in this video is using a reel from a triplex that is driven by hydrolics. It also appears to be a brand new cutting unit. Your reel won't spin free like that.
 
#25 ·
ahartzell said:
I'll try having a look at that little screw inlet thing...but mine definitely doesn't sound that way at idle. It just can't go more than like 60-70% full throttle. If I put throttle down as far as it will go then it dies. If I get it down to like 20% throttle and try to engage the drive/reels it dies. This could be normal for all I know...not sure how far you are SUPPOSED to be able to throttle down.
Here is a link to the Kawasaki FE120 Service Manual. The carburetor is discussed in sections 3-2 through 3-6. It describes the basic functions of each system (pilot, main, choke and float), disassembly/reassembly, as well as adjustment procedures. Here is a link the the Toro GM1000 Service Manual. Throttle control adjustment is discussed on page 3-6. I would work through both of those adjustment procedures and make sure everything is set where it is supposed to be. If that doesn't help you may have to dig into the carb. A lot of these mowers sit for extended periods of time, so you may have a clogged jet or something. The only carbs I know much about are the kind you eat, so beyond that I'm not much help. :lol:

Also, go here and enter the model number of your mower (found on the serial number plate on the frame). Click on the link of the serial number range that your mower falls into and download both the Operator Manual and Parts Catalog. I would start by reading the Operator Manual cover to cover. It will 1) help give you an understanding of how everything is supposed to work, and 2) help you do routine adjustments/maintenance tasks. Then familiarize yourself with what's in the Toro and Kawasaki service manuals - they are valuable references for non-routine maintenance tasks (e.g. carb adjustments, belt replacements, etc). The Parts Catalog is a handy reference if you have to have to take something apart.

Don't let this next statement discourage you (because most of us here are in the same boat), but just remember that you bought a >10 year old machine that a golf course for one reason or another decided was no longer worth keeping. A brand new one would have cost 10x what you paid, so with it should come a reasonable expectation that you may have to do some maintenance as things wear out/need attention. And hey, if it was easy, everyone would do it. :thumbup:
 
#26 ·
I can try the carb cleaning/adjustment. I had to read it like 5x just to partially understand. I'm pretty handy and tech/engine savvy but not so much with small engines (all compact and twisted).

Some of it isn't explained well in manual (like keep throttle level closed)...not even sure what that means.

Might give it a whirl today...if the wife doesn't get me for "being in lawn land" :lol:
 
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