Temps are starting to cool off and......sigh.....the grass is slowing in its growth. I know that we should put down 1lb/k of N and pre-E but I was wondering what else folks do? What is your goal HOC before it goes dormant? Is anyone overseeing with rye?
Its a sad time for me when things start to cool down. But, at least football season is here!
I've noticed a bit of a slow down too - we have had a very mild August here. I will be finishing the season at 1/2" HOC for the first time ever, so I'm excited about that. I don't necessarily buy into the let your grass grow taller before dormancy at the HOC's most of us are dealing with. It's fine if you do, but I think the risk of winterkill is minimal (where I live anyway), so it just adds extra work to the spring scalp.
Speaking of the spring scalp, another thing I have considered, and may try this year, is lowering the HOC slightly and doing a couple cuts over the winter. Not a major scalp, but incrementally lowering the HOC to keep things looking fresh and reduce the workload in the spring.
I also plan to apply PreE in September, finish the year @ .500, and also switch from Milorganite to a synthetic 10-10-10 fert for my October feeding. No overseeding planned for me, but you never know...
I have a similar plan to Ware and I too will be going into the Winter below .500". I will NOT be overseeding with rye though . I also plan on adding a balanced fertilizer towards the end of September, more for the K than anything else, might go a different route but only time will tell on that. I want to second what Ware said about keeping your lawn as low as you can as it will make the Spring scalp a lot easier. I usually try to start the scalp early in February if the weather permits as to break it up.
My lawn started at about 2-3" this season, it can be done just try to break up the scalping into manageable chunks and make sure you have a plan for all the clippings(My city picked them up for free). You may also want to invest/build a good receptacle to hold trash bags too and buy some decent ones in bulk
I raise my HOC to 2.0" since it's a new turf. I applied an all purpose 19-19-19 fertilizer at a rate of 0.75lb of N per 1,000 sqft to ensure there was some phosphorus. I would have gone with something higher in phosphorus If I was buying today but I already had the all purpose on-hand. My main concern is avoiding winter kill. I plan to spray pre-em of simazine and monument near halloween.
My lawn started at about 2-3" this season, it can be done just try to break up the scalping into manageable chunks and make sure you have a plan for all the clippings(My city picked them up for free). You may also want to invest/build a good receptacle to hold trash bags too and buy some decent ones in bulk
My lawn started at about 2-3" this season, it can be done just try to break up the scalping into manageable chunks and make sure you have a plan for all the clippings(My city picked them up for free). You may also want to invest/build a good receptacle to hold trash bags too and buy some decent ones in bulk
My lawn started at about 2-3" this season, it can be done just try to break up the scalping into manageable chunks and make sure you have a plan for all the clippings(My city picked them up for free). You may also want to invest/build a good receptacle to hold trash bags too and buy some decent ones in bulk
I must have misunderstood you....they will pick up anything bagged where I am, but in the city they will actually clean up piles people leave on the street. So I can bag it or burn it :thumbup:
Ok a newbie question
Why dont we continue to apply 1 pound of nitrogen a month as well as start to apply Pot ash or a balanced fert?
I never try to do things a certain way because thats the way its always been done.
Is it possible to delay dormancy buy pushing fertilizer application?
Will doing so harm my lawn?
I need the science behind it
Just asking Why do we do it?
Is it possible to delay dormancy buy pushing fertilizer application?
Will doing so harm my lawn?
I need the science behind it
Just asking Why do we do it
Ok a newbie question
Why dont we continue to apply 1 pound of nitrogen a month as well as start to apply Pot ash or a balanced fert?
I never try to do things a certain way because thats the way its always been done.
Is it possible to delay dormancy buy pushing fertilizer application?
Will doing so harm my lawn?
I need the science behind it
Just asking Why do we do it?
You're not looking to push top growth this late in the season as the lawn is starting to store food for reserves over the Winter. Giving it a good shot of Potassium(K) late in the season will help it "harden" off for the Winter. Also heavy fertilizer late in the season "can" help promote dead Spring spot.
Ok a newbie question
Why dont we continue to apply 1 pound of nitrogen a month as well as start to apply Pot ash or a balanced fert?
I never try to do things a certain way because thats the way its always been done.
Is it possible to delay dormancy buy pushing fertilizer application?
Will doing so harm my lawn?
I need the science behind it
Just asking Why do we do it?
Dormancy is not driven by nutrients, it is driven by low temperatures or lack of water, thus, nothing you can do will stop bermuda from going dormant for the winter (unless you can find a way to keep it warm). Think of fall app of fertilizer like a bear hibernating for the winter. The bear eats a ton of fish so it has nutrients while its hibernating. Such is the same with bermuda. Feeding it now will keep it "healthy" over the winter.
Also, dormant bermuda will not absorb nitrogen which is why we don't apply fert over the winter (someone correct me if I'm wrong on that one)
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