Eric's Soil Test!
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The results reveal that any problems with the turf grass, if any, isn't likely due to soil nutrient levels. Not everyone cans say they have no nutrient below medium. It's up to you, but I'd suggest you let P fall down into the high medium range and maintain K levels or even move K up into the high medium range. What's your annual N application regiment?
I've lived here just over a year and yard is 15 years old, no clue what was done in the past! Here is history from last year and how I messed up:Ridgerunner said:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=996
So far this year I've put a total of 1.5 lbs N/k being starter and Milo first part of May and some Milo wannabe first part of June. Started using GCF products this year and MicroGreene will help get the micros up. Plan and dropping soybean meal end of August then 3 doses of Urea in Sept October and November. This report tell me to put 4 lbs N per year, but also recommends puttting down 3 lbs/k of Potassium this fall. Overall yard looks good and thicker than snot, can't mulch right now as clipping can't drop so I side discharge. Color isn't as dark as I would like and it seems to stress easily. Is 3lbs/k crazy or not for one app?
Soil is pretty darned good(from the 12 holes I dug for the sample most were black dirt)! Probably explains why I'm mowing every 3-4 days
My two cents, k was extrated as AA, so the range should be 100-235. You value was 143. If possible I would add potassium to get them closer to 175. But was rigderunner said, it is not deficient so it is up to you. If you bag instead of mulch mowing, then really try to add the pottasium to replace what is being removed.
Since the pH was above 7.0, iron will not be available to the plant from the soil. I would use AS (Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0) instead of urea for it's small acidification effect. Milo would be a good option for iron or FAS.
Since the pH was above 7.0, iron will not be available to the plant from the soil. I would use AS (Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0) instead of urea for it's small acidification effect. Milo would be a good option for iron or FAS.
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I prefer to test a day or two before I make my first nutrient application of the same month each year in Spring. That way I know the nutrients that I applied last year have had time to cook and I think it makes for more accurate results.
3#/M of K2O for 4#/M of N works out to .75#.M of K2O for every 1#/M of N. A little high for a starting amount to determine maintenance needs, but any excess will help build up your soil K reserves. As g-man suggests, it would be desirable to have reserve levels around 175 ppm or so. Next year's soil test should show what has happened with the K levels. Although applying 3#/M of K2O at one time shouldn't damage the turf (avoid applying After June 1 until late August), breaking it up into 2-4 equal applications along with the N is the better route.
As you've already added quite a bit of P, I would suggest you add no more and let it cook until next Spring. A new soil test next year should tell the tale. Your micros are sufficient, but if you want to keep supplementing them, you'll want to use next year's soil test to keep an eye on them.
Keep track of the amounts of everything you apply (N, P, K and micros).
Based on your recent photos, your lawn looks great. Don't get carried away with trying to fix something that isn't broken.
3#/M of K2O for 4#/M of N works out to .75#.M of K2O for every 1#/M of N. A little high for a starting amount to determine maintenance needs, but any excess will help build up your soil K reserves. As g-man suggests, it would be desirable to have reserve levels around 175 ppm or so. Next year's soil test should show what has happened with the K levels. Although applying 3#/M of K2O at one time shouldn't damage the turf (avoid applying After June 1 until late August), breaking it up into 2-4 equal applications along with the N is the better route.
As you've already added quite a bit of P, I would suggest you add no more and let it cook until next Spring. A new soil test next year should tell the tale. Your micros are sufficient, but if you want to keep supplementing them, you'll want to use next year's soil test to keep an eye on them.
Keep track of the amounts of everything you apply (N, P, K and micros).
Based on your recent photos, your lawn looks great. Don't get carried away with trying to fix something that isn't broken.
Alright so here's what I'm thinking, I'm going to call SiteOne tomorrow and see what they have for Sulfate of Potash(50 lbs) and also Ammonium Sulfate.
So correct me if I'm wrong but if I put 50 lbs of SOP that would give me my 3lbs/k, following the recommendation. Then I'll put the soybean meal down middle to end of August, then do 3 apps of Ammonium Sulfate(2 bags total)! This will give me a total N outlay of 3.5 lbs/k this fall. I may try the Feature 6-0-0 to darken the lawn as it seems a bit more fool proof for me!
The Milo suggestion had me intrigued, but not sure I want any more phosphorus going down now as I'm already high, and the Iron would be wasted as the plant can't absorb it anyway due to the PH.
Does this sound like the right path? Am I interpreting this all correctly? Darn it now I HAVE to buy a sprayer! Lol
Sorry @Ridgerunner a bit of an overlap, as we were typing at the same time, but I think I understand what to do! Thanks
I will make sure I do the soil test earlier next year, had full intentions this year but winter seemed to last forever then life got in the way!
So correct me if I'm wrong but if I put 50 lbs of SOP that would give me my 3lbs/k, following the recommendation. Then I'll put the soybean meal down middle to end of August, then do 3 apps of Ammonium Sulfate(2 bags total)! This will give me a total N outlay of 3.5 lbs/k this fall. I may try the Feature 6-0-0 to darken the lawn as it seems a bit more fool proof for me!
The Milo suggestion had me intrigued, but not sure I want any more phosphorus going down now as I'm already high, and the Iron would be wasted as the plant can't absorb it anyway due to the PH.
Does this sound like the right path? Am I interpreting this all correctly? Darn it now I HAVE to buy a sprayer! Lol
Sorry @Ridgerunner a bit of an overlap, as we were typing at the same time, but I think I understand what to do! Thanks
I will make sure I do the soil test earlier next year, had full intentions this year but winter seemed to last forever then life got in the way!
So I've been doing some research and learning I still know nothing! So much to learn that the average diy'er doesn't even know exists!
The whole ammonium sulfate and sulfate of potash got me digging and watching a few @thegrassfactor videos! I found the following video very informative.
So with my research I think I'm really leaning towards a fert that has both AS and SOP, I found the following fert hopefully in stock at a local supplier, it has some phosphate, but I think it could really help accomplish what I'm trying to do!
Am I on the right path? My thoughts are as follows:
-probably gonna skip soybean meal and use this product or 1 similar
-going to do either 3-4 apps, not sure if 3.25lbs of AS is too much over 3 months,
-might be better to buy 3-4 bags and do 6-8 apps 2 weeks apart
-gets me my potash
- helps to continue to build micros(S, CU, Mn, Zn), let's get em all optimum, lol!
-negative is there is phosphorus in it
-although the acidification won't drop my ph much, have to start somewhere! It'd take 97 lbs of AS to drop my ph to 6.9! This plan would be 19.5-26 lbs
I've never thought I would be shopping for golf course level fert, but it's kind of fun!
https://pndata.andersonsinc.com/Files/Labels/AGC13M5.40.pdf
The whole ammonium sulfate and sulfate of potash got me digging and watching a few @thegrassfactor videos! I found the following video very informative.
So with my research I think I'm really leaning towards a fert that has both AS and SOP, I found the following fert hopefully in stock at a local supplier, it has some phosphate, but I think it could really help accomplish what I'm trying to do!
Am I on the right path? My thoughts are as follows:
-probably gonna skip soybean meal and use this product or 1 similar
-going to do either 3-4 apps, not sure if 3.25lbs of AS is too much over 3 months,
-might be better to buy 3-4 bags and do 6-8 apps 2 weeks apart
-gets me my potash
- helps to continue to build micros(S, CU, Mn, Zn), let's get em all optimum, lol!
-negative is there is phosphorus in it
-although the acidification won't drop my ph much, have to start somewhere! It'd take 97 lbs of AS to drop my ph to 6.9! This plan would be 19.5-26 lbs
I've never thought I would be shopping for golf course level fert, but it's kind of fun!
https://pndata.andersonsinc.com/Files/Labels/AGC13M5.40.pdf
I ve considered this same product for my use. Advance turf solutions sells it. I went with AS separate from SOP, only because I could control how much to apply of each. For example, I could apply some SOP in the summer without having to apply nitrogen. If you go with this product, still buy one bag for AS. It is inexpensive (~$20) and you get other uses (FAS, late fall nitrogen).
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@Ridgerunner I just used the rough calculations in @thegrassfactor video that showed roughly 500lbs/acre of AS would drop the ph from 5-4.5 in a loam soil, so I did the math for my 8K and came up with 97. It's just a rough number I used, but he went on to explain that as AS use continues you need to monitor PH and may have to supplement with lime to stabilize the PH where you want it! At least this is how I interpreted his video! Lol, I very well could be wrong!
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