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Just curios if using a Pre M would help keeping the weeds down in our flower beds. We keep them pretty clean but it does take a lot of hand work to do that. If so, what brand? Granular or liquid?
 

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Don't use dithiopyr or prodiamine in beds unless you're trying to save money. Use preen extended control (the extended version controls more weed types and for longer), snapshot (better value than preen per lb but more expensive), or similar. Non-lawn preemergents control WAY more weeds than lawn preemergents do - a quick glance at both labels will tell you as much.
 

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ryeguy said:
Don't use dithiopyr or prodiamine in beds unless you're trying to save money. Use preen extended control (the extended version controls more weed types and for longer), snapshot (better value than preen per lb but more expensive), or similar. Non-lawn preemergents control WAY more weeds than lawn preemergents do - a quick glance at both labels will tell you as much.
Makes sense.

I use dithiapyr because I have it and have used it enough to have a feel for it (as in I know it won't hurt anything if I overspray onto the turf and I know the Fall overseed will germinate in those spots). Less messy than prodiamine. Works like magic on hardscapes too :D .

Can only find snapshot as granules. Not for me,
 

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Yeah, I hear ya. The sprayables are way easier to apply and it saves you from having to buy yet another product, a pretty expensive one at that. Even though I just recommended preen/snapshot I don't use it either, because I don't have a ton of beds so I'm ok with just killing any weeds with a spray bottle of roundup.
 

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I use a tank mix of Prodiamine 65 WDG at .55 oz/M mixed with Isoxaben 75 WG at .4 oz/M in my 8k sq ft of mulch beds. I apply once in the spring and is my second year doing it. Works well and would say it is about 99% effective. It may not be 100% compatible with all plants, but I have no issues. When I moved in in 2016 all the beds were completely overrun with weeds.

Edit - To add that the cost for the application is roughly $4 per 1000 sq ft. A consideration for people with alot of mulch beds.
 

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Pete1313 said:
I use a tank mix of Prodiamine 65 WDG at .55 oz/M mixed with Isoxaben 75 WG at .4 oz/M in my 8k sq ft of mulch beds. I apply once in the spring and is my second year doing it. Works well and would say it is about 99% effective. It may not be 100% compatible with all plants, but I have no issues. When I moved in in 2016 all the beds were completely overrun with weeds.

Edit - To add that the cost for the application is roughly $4 per 1000 sq ft. A consideration for people with alot of mulch beds.
Yeah that's dangerous I'd you have plants that are not compatible, but works great if you have mostly simple shrub beds. Prodiamine will put the hurt on some of the woody ornamentals it is not labeled for
 

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Another pre-em for landscaping that I've never used but interested in trying is Freehand. It is actually labeled to control nutsedge, which makes it very appealing.

However It's only available in I think 40-50lb bags, so cost of entry is high. Snapshot you can get for 95-100 in the large bag but it is also available in other places in 5 or 10 lb bags for much cheaper.
 

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Delmarva Keith said:
ryeguy said:
Don't use dithiopyr or prodiamine in beds unless you're trying to save money. Use preen extended control (the extended version controls more weed types and for longer), snapshot (better value than preen per lb but more expensive), or similar. Non-lawn preemergents control WAY more weeds than lawn preemergents do - a quick glance at both labels will tell you as much.
Makes sense.

I use dithiapyr because I have it and have used it enough to have a feel for it (as in I know it won't hurt anything if I overspray onto the turf and I know the Fall overseed will germinate in those spots). Less messy than prodiamine. Works like magic on hardscapes too :D .

Can only find snapshot as granules. Not for me,
dithiopyr won't hurt the trees in landscapes? Example crepe myrtle, rose brush, plam trees. I know dithiopyr and prodiamine would be cheaper to use over the longer haul. I'm just trying to make sure my plants will not die.
 

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CenlaLowell said:
Delmarva Keith said:
ryeguy said:
Don't use dithiopyr or prodiamine in beds unless you're trying to save money. Use preen extended control (the extended version controls more weed types and for longer), snapshot (better value than preen per lb but more expensive), or similar. Non-lawn preemergents control WAY more weeds than lawn preemergents do - a quick glance at both labels will tell you as much.
Makes sense.

I use dithiapyr because I have it and have used it enough to have a feel for it (as in I know it won't hurt anything if I overspray onto the turf and I know the Fall overseed will germinate in those spots). Less messy than prodiamine. Works like magic on hardscapes too :D .

Can only find snapshot as granules. Not for me,
dithiopyr won't hurt the trees in landscapes? Example crepe myrtle, rose brush, plam trees. I know dithiopyr and prodiamine would be cheaper to use over the longer haul. I'm just trying to make sure my plants will not die.
Use directed spray, not over the top. It does not move deeply into the soil. It won't hurt your trees anymore than it hurts your turf (it's non-selectve and stops roots from growing normally - if it would kill trees it would kill turf). I've sprayed it all over beds planted with all types of plants. No ill effects and no weeds.
 
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