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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to use this thread to discuss my thoughts and questions as I work through designing an irrigation system. I'm going to take to look at 2 different connection options, pros and cons of each, and from there the layout should be the same. I'm just learning all of this so I hope it can help others down the road as they attempt the same thing!

My first question is, does anyone know of any free online designing software to help create nice size able drawing to help Layout the system and make it easy for others to read?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok I'm gonna list a materials list:

1" Pipe for main lines and laterals:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/polypipe/1-100-psi-irrigation-pipe-yellow-label-flexible-water-pipe/p-1444431564118.htm

1/2" pipe to go to sprinklers:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/water-systems/watering-irrigation/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/rain-bird-swing-pipe-100-ft-coil-for-sprinkler-installation/p-1444451880306-c-8657.htm?tid=1258999796872508715&ipos=6

Connections to heads:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/water-systems/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/rain-bird-swing-pipe-elbow-1-2-barb-x-1-2-mnpt/p-1444451886736-c-8652.htm?tid=1625235453450438523&ipos=8
(Obviously I will buy some 3/4" where needed as well)

From the laterals to the heads:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Insert-Fitting-p/1401-130.htm

Now I'm either going to run 2 Melnor 4 valve spigot timers or go full blown valves and controller.

For the spigot timers I'll need:

Basically I need to run 3/4" poly off the hose thread then convert it to 1" either for the poly runs if doing timers, or 1" poly to run it into the manifold.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AHI3QY/ref=asc_df_B007AHI3QY5169222/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B007AHI3QY&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198079373928&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4198307165873313625&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017770&hvtargid=pla-319346663450

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Insert-Fitting-p/1429-131.htm

Now if I go full blown I'll need to manifolds and I'm thinking the following:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Sprinklers-Valves-Manifolds-Kits-p/dura-4pgv-barb.htm
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Sprinklers-Valves-Manifolds-Kits-p/dura-3pgv-barb.htm

I'll need one of these to connect the 2 manifolds with 1" poly pipe:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Dura-Sprinkler-Valve-Manifold-Parts-p/335-010.htm

And lastly I'll need 1 of these bad boys:
https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-Generation/dp/B01D1NMLJU

As I think of things l'll add them, and as always please offer thoughts/suggestions on what I could change or am missing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Movingshrub said:
I sketched out my yard and sent it to rainbird and let them come up with a plan, at no cost.
That's going to be my last resort, not that I'm against it, just kinda want to do this DIY from the start. I want to lay it out so I know why I put what where and with what regulated heads.

The system will be built with Hunter heads, more than likely MP Rotators and PGP Rotors if I decide to incorporate some!
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
J_nick said:
Graph paper, accurate measurements of your yard and a compass will be your best friend.
I know, lol! Just need to draw one out and make many copies so as I screw up I have more to screw up over and over again, just like the cleanliness of doing one on the computer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ware said:
I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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Eric said:
Ware said:
I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?
I'm confused - the sidewalk in my back yard does not have side strip heads. That is drip irrigation for shrubs.

The side strip outside my fence - between the fence and the future sidewalk is 5ft and 8ft. I used a single row of MP Rotator side strip heads on the 5ft wide section, and opposing rows on the 8ft. The MP Rotator side strip specs are 5x15 and 5x30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ware said:
Eric said:
Ware said:
I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?
I'm confused - the sidewalk in my back yard does not have side strip heads. That is drip irrigation for shrubs.

The side strip outside my fence - between the fence and the future sidewalk is 5ft and 8ft. I used a single row of MP Rotator side strip heads on the 5ft wide section, and opposing rows on the 8ft. The MP Rotator side strip specs are 5x15 and 5x30.
Sorry for the confusion the area by future sidewalk was what I was referencing. Thanks!
 

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FWIW, I fiddled around with Orbit's site, and they have a pretty comprehensive online designer. You can use a model based on satellite photos of your house, or just draw it out, and the completed drawing shows the layout, along with a BOM (bill of materials)for the products used in your design. Check it out, it's pretty neat, and will give you a good starting point.

http://www.design.orbitonline.com/

Ware said:
I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
Sketchup is a good free alternative for AutoCAD for mere mortals :D
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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I'm with J_nick, paper is best to brainstorm and get the an initial layout. I recommend getting a large cardboard or large paper to do the yard to scale. Then make card board circles, 180, 90 at the different nominal throw distance from the heads (ie mp2000 is 18ft). This way you could move them around and see how to fit them and get head to head coverage.

Once you get your general idea, I would then go to AutoCAD to get all the details, laterals mains paths and valves. Once you've done a few of layouts, then you could just do it in your head and write it in a napkin.

Post what you come up with and we could give you opinions. I think there are enough of us that have design our own to point you in the right direction.

In regards to the side strips, the way ware setup the 5ft section is not ideal, but it works. The ideal would be to have some opposing ones. I would definitely keep these in a separate zone to adjust the duration to the precipitation rate.
 

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5.6ksqft Bewitched KBG in Fishers, IN
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You don't want to use that 1/2 distribution tubing. That's for drop irrigation and low pressures (70psi max) and more rigid. You want to use swing pipe instead (tough rubber hose).

Remember for the spigots that something has to turn to get the threads to connect. The fitting you have is fixed unless you get the poly to fitting connection loose to turn on it. You will like the rachio more since it is easier to deal with long term (ie adjusting the schedule).

Measure your psi/gpm at 6am when everyone (houses, HOA common areas, etc) is watering their lawns. During the peak of drought, my psi/gpm drops to the point that I'm avoiding that time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
g-man said:
You don't want to use that 1/2 distribution tubing. That's for drop irrigation and low pressures (70psi max) and more rigid. You want to use swing pipe instead (tough rubber hose).

Remember for the spigots that something has to turn to get the threads to connect. The fitting you have is fixed unless you get the poly to fitting connection loose to turn on it. You will like the rachio more since it is easier to deal with long term (ie adjusting the schedule).

Measure your psi/gpm at 6am when everyone (houses, HOA common areas, etc) is watering their lawns. During the peak of drought, my psi/gpm drops to the point that I'm avoiding that time.
Changed the pipe to swing pipe from Menards, I wasn't a fan of the hose connection I had picked out, still researching the connection from the bib to the manifold.

Found what I believe will work for the hose connection as well, changed above as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So long story short, my 4 zone Melnor timer is broke after one year and I was hoping to buy another, but don't want to buy 2! I'm not ready to put my cheap system in yet, but I'm thinking of buying the Gen2 Rachio now if I can figure out how to make the following work! This is where I need help! Lol

These are on super clearance at Menards, problem is they are 1" MNPT. What I want to do is figure out how to run a hose to a 4-way splitter then piece small sections of hose from the splitter to each valve and connect my garden hoses on the exit! I'm hoping someone knows more than me and can help me find the right connection!

I know it's pretty *******, but it's temporary until o truly want to put in a system!

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-valves-boxes/1-male-threaded-in-line-jar-top-sprinkler-control-valve/57467/p-1444450332499.htm
 
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