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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


Looking for help interpreting the test report and for suggestions on how to improve the soil to get the best grass possible. I am growing bermuda (assuming some hybrid) and will eventually (over the next few seasons) get rid of any st aug creeping in from the neighbor's lawn. I only have a rotary mower as of now and plan to scalp the lawn best I can this month, and then mow as low as possible (as my lawn isn't perfectly level this probably won't be that low). Considering the idea of bringing in tons of sand to do some leveling this spring once the lawn gets growing well. And then subsequent levelings over the next seasons until I am satisfied with the level.

I probably screwed up taking the sample as I went with dirt at about 3-4" in depth and definitely below the grass root material. I noticed the soil was a lighter tan color versus the top 1-2" of dirt that was much darker. Maybe I should have submitted the dark material (top 1-2" of the profile) as well to get a report which more accurately reflects what I have to work with.

Prior to receiving the report I have planned on adding some OM this year (clearly it is low at 1.49%) and use Milo and soy bean meal (other sources from local feed store) in addition to synthetic sources of N. I am also going to start using the BestLawn soil conditioner and kelp help with humic pretty often this season. Hoping the HA helps increase my TEC (currently 5.79). Looks like I can use a balanced fertilizer as my P and K values are low?? Maybe need magnesium (in the form of epsom salt?). looks like the micros are deficient in copper (a little), boron (a little), zinc, and iron. I think I can apply the micros attached to Milo and through the spreader. Have no idea about how many grams/1000 sq ft to add on the micors or what else I should be putting down.

Thanks for reading and I am eager to see what you guys think I should do, when considering the soil test results.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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There are people here with worse soils than what you have and have great lawns so don't despair.

Once the lawn is almost 100% greened up I would go with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 and apply it at 1 lb of Nitrogen/K which in turn will get you 1 lb of the other nutrients. After that just keep feeding your lawn 1 lb of Nitrogen a month and if you can find something with Potassium in it with equal number to the Nitrogen would be optimal but not necessary. Just keep feeding, watering and mowing it and that bermuda will take off in no time.

I wouldn't worry too much about all the other variables right now, just concentrate on getting the bermuda to over take the SA and establish a nice thick stand of turf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will do.
Would you worry about trying to increase OM and any suggestions on how you would do that, if it were your lawn with less than 2% OM?

I believe the biggest factor in which grass is winning the bermuda vs st aug battle in my lawn right now is sunlight. The places where st aug has crept in from the neighbor is where some trees provide partial shade. Plan is to keep those trees pruned so enough light hits the lawn for bermuda to grow. In order to get the st aug out of that area, I think I need to slowly pull it back (by the stolons) and encourage the bermuda to spread in those areas. I will do this little by little so I don't pull too much st aug and have too large of a bare area at one time. Also, I think I'll build a barrier in the soil along the property boundary to keep the st aug from spreading into the yard. I'm sure pics of the boundary area would make the issue more clear than my words.
Seem like a viable plan?
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Ware said:
Davie_Gravy said:
Would you worry about trying to increase OM and any suggestions on how you would do that, if it were your lawn with less than 2% OM?
I wouldn't worry too much about increasing organic matter for healthy bermudagrass. A case can actually be made for doing the opposite and diluting it.
+1 Ware, I have the article saved to my computer :thumbup:

Have you considered using a PGR as it may help the bermuda spread and take over the SA and it may help under the trees too. I try to keep my tree trimmed 6-8 feet above the ground, if I have to duck to walk under it then it tells me it's time for some trimming :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Ware thanks for the link, I'll definitely check it out...and just reading your reply makes me feel better already.

@Mightyquinn I'm in the group buy in for a pint which will cover my lawn for this season. I plan to apply every 3 weeks. I am very interested in the stated effects. as for the trees, I try to keep the bottom of the leaf canopy atleast 9 feet above the ground. As long as each tree is thinned out enough then I'll get enough sun on the bermuda. Good thing I only have 3 trees that can block the sun and all three are on my property so I can do what I want with them. I have one in the front yard, one on the side, and one in the back yard...all lacebark elms so not too terrible (so far) to prune.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Davie_Gravy said:
@Ware thanks for the link, I'll definitely check it out...and just reading your reply makes me feel better already.

@Mightyquinn I'm in the group buy in for a pint which will cover my lawn for this season. I plan to apply every 3 weeks. I am very interested in the stated effects. as for the trees, I try to keep the bottom of the leaf canopy atleast 9 feet above the ground. As long as each tree is thinned out enough then I'll get enough sun on the bermuda. Good thing I only have 3 trees that can block the sun and all three are on my property so I can do what I want with them. I have one in the front yard, one on the side, and one in the back yard...all lacebark elms so not too terrible (so far) to prune.
Sounds great, I think as long as you stay after it this year you will be surprised by the end of the season at what just watering, fertilizing and mowing can do for a lawn :thumbup:
 

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Hoping the HA helps increase my TEC (currently 5.79). Looks like I can use a balanced fertilizer as my P and K values are low?? Maybe need magnesium (in the form of epsom salt?). looks like the micros are deficient in copper (a little), boron (a little), zinc, and iron. I think I can apply the micros attached to Milo and through the spreader. Have no idea about how many grams/1000 sq ft to add on the micors or what else I should be putting down.
Just passing through and wanted to compliment you on your analysis. :thumbup: Next year you can correct your sample taking error and have good data to make adjustments. Now I gotta leave the dark side forum before I submit and buy a reel mower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@Ridgerunner yea for this year I'll just follow MQs suggestion on sticking to the macros but I am pretty sure I'll do an application of epsom salt as I think it can only help (based on my numbers in the report). I suppose I could always grab another sample ('improved' method) now and compare but I think I'll use the money towards ferts instead.

On another note, I got one quote from Lowery Sand and Gravel here in Arlington Tx for some masonry sand. Here is what I get from them: 'Bulk No bags dumped in driveway $45 ton and $110 delivery Taxable 8%'
That seems pretty expensive. Anyone else in the DFW area have a cheaper source?
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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I really wouldn't worry too much about the epsom salt(Magnesium Sulfate) this year, I think the main focus should be just getting it thick and healthy and ridding it of the SA as best you can.

If it was me, I wouldn't go through Logan Labs again for a soil test as they don't give recommendations for amendments or anything to gauge off of. You might want to look into your local extension office or these guys look promising too. Waypoint Analytical I'm thinking of going with them next year to see what I get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So came here to post this image to see if you guys know what it is but googled first and I believe they are worm castings. Noticed it a couple days after scalping (guess you can tell it's my first time, haha). These castings are everywhere. Do you guys get these as well? I assume this is not a bad thing (related to soil)!?

 

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Davie_Gravy said:
So came here to post this image to see if you guys know what it is but googled first and I believe they are worm castings. Noticed it a couple days after scalping (guess you can tell it's my first time, haha). These castings are everywhere. Do you guys get these as well? I assume this is not a bad thing (related to soil)!?

Yes :thumbup:
 
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