CG is an annual. It will die in cold if you do nothining.

Tenacity might not work at this tiller level. Quinclorac is best but if your seeding anyway gly will work and is easier to attain.

Doesnt look like to large of an area for a small reno.

 

CG is an annual. It will die in cold if you do nothining.

Tenacity might not work at this tiller level. Quinclorac is best but if your seeding anyway gly will work and is easier to attain.

Doesnt look like to large of an area for a small reno.

I know I can kill one way or another, but doesn't the weed still need to be physically removed afterwards? If so, why bother killing it first? thanks.

 

CG is an annual. It will die in cold if you do nothining.

Tenacity might not work at this tiller level. Quinclorac is best but if your seeding anyway gly will work and is easier to attain.

Doesnt look like to large of an area for a small reno.

I know I can kill one way or another, but doesn't the weed still need to be physically removed afterwards? If so, why bother killing it first? thanks.

No. Just pre-m in may next season and it will prevent.

It might just be a tad bit unsightly if not killed. Once it gets cold, the ecosytem slows down and decay doesnt happen as fast. The reason to kill now is so that it has a chance to happen while its warm still.

 

CG is an annual. It will die in cold if you do nothining.

Tenacity might not work at this tiller level. Quinclorac is best but if your seeding anyway gly will work and is easier to attain.

Doesnt look like to large of an area for a small reno.

I know I can kill one way or another, but doesn't the weed still need to be physically removed afterwards? If so, why bother killing it first? thanks.

No. Just pre-m in may next season and it will prevent.

It might just be a tad bit unsightly if not killed. Once it gets cold, the ecosytem slows down and decay doesnt happen as fast. The reason to kill now is so that it has a chance to happen while its warm still.

Thanks. I just ordered some Quinclorac75. Will see how well it kills, then reseed next month.

 

Quimclorac will knock it down well. It dies off and kinda shrivels away. Only thing you can use if you plan on reseeding in the next month

 

Quinclorac is best for post-emergent crabgrass.

 

Plan on using a pre-emergent next spring. There's probably a large seed bank in the soil.

So kill it now, reseed in the fall, pre-emergent in the spring.

 

Happy to report that one day after treatment, the crabgrass is already turning brown. Much faster than I expected.

 

Here is the overseed guide:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6250

You will mow the existing vegetation (grass, dead or dying weeds) low, bagging the clippings. That should open up space so the seeds reach the ground and it shocks the existing grass so it won't grow fast. Crabgrass tends to sprawl and some monster low lying crabgrass plants might prevent seed reaching the soil, even after you've killed it. If so, you can physically remove it with a hoe or take. The ground is softer after a rain. It doesn't need to come out of the ground. You're just making space for seed to land on the ground instead of on leaves. Dead stalks that remain are even helpful, as they keep the soil in place.

 

Here is the overseed guide:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6250

You will mow the existing vegetation (grass, dead or dying weeds) low, bagging the clippings. That should open up space so the seeds reach the ground and it shocks the existing grass so it won't grow fast. Crabgrass tends to sprawl and some monster low lying crabgrass plants might prevent seed reaching the soil, even after you've killed it. If so, you can physically remove it with a hoe or take. The ground is softer after a rain. It doesn't need to come out of the ground. You're just making space for seed to land on the ground instead of on leaves. Dead stalks that remain are even helpful, as they keep the soil in place.

I don't have a bagger for my mower, but I can rake up by hand. How much death do I have to wait for to reseed? I'd prefer to physically remove once all dead, but as you said pulling them out removes a lot of soil. Such a pesky weed.

 

Don't forget the methylated seed oil for the quinclorac.

 

Follow the directions on the quinclorac package. I don't think there is a waiting period for quinclorac but the label should say. You don't have to wait for them to turn brown. No need to remove anything beyond stuff that interferes with seed falling to the ground. And then it's just the top stuff. The roots can remain. Chop off the top growth. You could also use a weed wacker. That would be easier than hoeing. You can rake it up.

 

Happy to report that one day after treatment, the crabgrass is already turning brown. Much faster than I expected.

Isnt it funny how the after using a legtimate crabgrass product that the bigbox store product is basically a scam ?

When i talk grass with friends and family they think its impossible to kill and I laugh...

 

Happy to report that one day after treatment, the crabgrass is already turning brown. Much faster than I expected.

Isnt it funny how the after using a legtimate crabgrass product that the bigbox store product is basically a scam ?

When i talk grass with friends and family they think its impossible to kill and I laugh...

lol, I was a bit skeptical especially since the grass has multiple tillers, but it's dying off and I'm happy.

 

Cheers

Remember prem in may. I forget the exact time but right as the soil temp consistently stay at 70* is usually the latest you want to get it down. Most though do earlier ( April ) to get the other stuff too, as you may now already.

 

Cheers

Remember prem in may. I forget the exact time but right as the soil temp consistently stay at 70* is usually the latest you want to get it down. Most though do earlier ( April ) to get the other stuff too, as you may now already.

Is Barricade the best PE?

 

Cheers

Remember prem in may. I forget the exact time but right as the soil temp consistently stay at 70* is usually the latest you want to get it down. Most though do earlier ( April ) to get the other stuff too, as you may now already.

Is Barricade the best PE?

I dont know.

I use Prodiamine... barricade might be prodiamine.

They all work, it's just a matter of cost, which pests they hit.
Products label things differently. LIke Stonewall in Lesco fert 007 is prodiamine.

 

The AI in Barricade is Prodiamine. You can get generic versions: https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html

 

Another question while the crabgrass is mostly dead now. I have a fairly large area, ~7000sqft that I want to reno. Full of weeds. I was going to use RU, but they don't offer it in a hose end sprayer like Weed B Gone. I know RU would probably work better, but I'm not hand spraying that much area with a wand sprayer. Any other options?

 

I use quinclorac/MSO and it annihilated my crabgrass and no subsequent removal was needed. For the 7sqft section you're looking to address, have you looked at something like the Underhill Pellet Pro Applicator Gun (or something similar) that attaches to a hose end? I have no personal experience with it, but I have to think there's a way to get some sort of herbicide mixed in there properly for your intended application.

https://www.underhillonline.net/Underhill_Pellet_Pro_p/a-ppwa50k.htm

 

I put down an anti-crabgrass pre-em back in early April and was doing well until about 3 or 4 weeks ago I noticed some crabgrass creeping in. I should've put another application down again in June I guess.

 

Another question while the crabgrass is mostly dead now. I have a fairly large area, ~7000sqft that I want to reno. Full of weeds. I was going to use RU, but they don't offer it in a hose end sprayer like Weed B Gone. I know RU would probably work better, but I'm not hand spraying that much area with a wand sprayer. Any other options?

Why can't you spray that with a wand and pump sprayer? I spray my 3500sf in a matter of maybe 7 minutes.

 

Another question while the crabgrass is mostly dead now. I have a fairly large area, ~7000sqft that I want to reno. Full of weeds. I was going to use RU, but they don't offer it in a hose end sprayer like Weed B Gone. I know RU would probably work better, but I'm not hand spraying that much area with a wand sprayer. Any other options?

Are you planning the reno this year? When is your average first frost date?

 

I use quinclorac/MSO and it annihilated my crabgrass and no subsequent removal was needed. For the 7Ksqft section you're looking to address, have you looked at something like the Underhill Pellet Pro Applicator Gun (or something similar) that attaches to a hose end? I have no personal experience with it, but I have to think there's a way to get some sort of herbicide mixed in there properly for your intended application.

https://www.underhillonline.net/Underhill_Pellet_Pro_p/a-ppwa50k.htm

 

I use quinclorac/MSO and it annihilated my crabgrass and no subsequent removal was needed. For the 7Ksqft section you're looking to address, have you looked at something like the Underhill Pellet Pro Applicator Gun (or something similar) that attaches to a hose end? I have no personal experience with it, but I have to think there's a way to get some sort of herbicide mixed in there properly for your intended application.

https://www.underhillonline.net/Underhill_Pellet_Pro_p/a-ppwa50k.htm