Lawn Care Forum banner

Cool Season Weed ID Thread - What is it and how do I kill it?

1 reading
513K views 1.8K replies 499 participants last post by  HudsLawn  
#1 ·
These websites has a good list of weeds, sledges, grassy weeds with pictures that help ID them.
Weeds in Turf
Virginia Tech Weed ID Tool

Purdue website has these:(https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner-resources/)

Control of Broadleaf Weeds in Homelawns (AY-9-W)
Control of Crabgrass in Homelawns (AY-10-W)
Identification and Control of Perennial Grassy Weeds (AY-11-W)
Yellow Nutsedge Control (AY-19-W)
ID and Control of Annual Bluegrass and Rough Bluegrass in Lawns (AY-41-W)

More weed list from Purdue- https://turf.purdue.edu/category/weed-of-the-month/

Some hard to ID ones:
Orchardgrass - http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2015/06/weed-of-month-for-may-2015-is.html
Quackgrass - http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2015/06/weed-of-month-for-june-2015-is.html

Check the Cool Season guide for Weed treatment options. In cool season, start with a 3-way (eg. Weed b Gon), then move to triclopyr (Weed b Gon CCO), lastly the rest most likely needs round up. A few hardones can be controlled with tenacity (bentgrass, nimble,).
 
#5 ·
Hey guys new to the forum. But Been watching every grass daddy video and lawn care nut videos on YouTube. I just moved into my newly built house in March and they hydro seeded it with KBG well that March I was deployed. And as I was told by my wife we got hit hard with hail and heavy rain. When I got back all I had was patches here and there. After throwing some seed and fert it started coming back. As you can see in the pics below well once everything started coming bavk the weeds did to I got most of them out using weed b gone but these ones won't be gone lol tips trick and help appreciate all feed back thanks guys

Note:iv been cutting it at about 3 in and watering it for about an hr and 15 min which gives me about 3/4 of an in of water twice a week.









 
#6 ·
Welcome. A successful spring seeding is hard and rarely successful. Yours looks really good. I know Washington weather is good. Keep an eye for fungus when temps get high (if). It is great that you know how long it takes to get 3/4in. Now try to stretch the frequency from twice a week to when it starts to show a bit of stress to encourage the roots to seek water stored deeper in the soil.

Now to your weeds. WBG will take care of these, but it will take ~3 repeated weekly applications. The other option is to use Triclopyr, which is stronger, but you have to be more careful. You will find it in products called brush killer (high concentration) and in WBG Chickweed, Clove and Oxalis (CCO). Personally I just use the normal WBG.
 
#9 ·
rnaude241 said:
I know I have some crabgrass in the picture which I treated with Quinclorac, but what is the vine like weed and what kills it? I have sandy soil and it's all over my yard.
Looks like you've got prostrate spurge. A treatment with 2, 4-D or Dicamba would take care of it easily, and inexpensively. If you get a Pre-E down, it should prevent it coming back; depending on how many seeds haven't germinated, you might need a second application 60 days later.
 
#11 ·
rnaude241 said:
Thanks Cornel K0rn. I figured 2, 4 -D would take care of it but I'm glad you provided the name. Thanks again.
If not too many it is easier to pull. It will take repeated applications to kill it.
 
#12 ·
social port said:
Good deal, CK. Thanks for confirming. I am interested in how you made the distinction. I noticed a lack of fine hair, which, among other things, led me to suspect crabgrass.

I'm just happy that it is not Bermuda!
As it turns out, this is bermuda. I found a family of runners (which crabgrass sometimes has, too, which makes the distinction very difficult at times). The width of the blades should have tipped me off, and perhaps it did--I just didn't want to believe. I think it looked like crabgrass because of the length of the grass/weed. It was over four inches when plucked.
This stuff has gone from my side yard to half of my front lawn. It has spread like lightning over the past week. It may have even spread under my driveway.
I'm done with Ornamec. There is nothing worth salvaging in my front lawn. Will more than three applications of Glyphosate be necessary to forever silence this invading bermuda grass?
 
#13 ·
social port said:
invading bermuda grass?
Please, this is the cool season forum. That is not a grass. It is a noxious weed. Please use Bermuda weed from now on. It's ok Ware will understand and still approve your post.:)
 
#14 ·
social port said:
As it turns out, this is bermuda. I found a family of runners (which crabgrass sometimes has, too, which makes the distinction very difficult at times). The width of the blades should have tipped me off, and perhaps it did--I just didn't want to believe. I think it looked like crabgrass because of the length of the grass/weed. It was over four inches when plucked.
This stuff has gone from my side yard to half of my front lawn. It has spread like lightning over the past week. It may have even spread under my driveway.
I'm done with Ornamec. There is nothing worth salvaging in my front lawn. Will more than three applications of Glyphosate be necessary to forever silence this invading bermuda grass?
Sorry about the misidentification. It's pretty easy here in the south to distinguish the difference between the crabgrass and bermuda based on the size of the blades. It might just be the amount of time I've spent on the golf courses or the athletic fields... It's interesting that you pose this question, since Grass Daddy just released a video of a collab he did with Matt from The Grass Factor about this exact problem.
g-man said:
Please, this is the cool season forum. That is not a grass. It is a noxious weed. Please use Bermuda weed from now on. It's ok Ware will understand and still approve your post.:)
Them's fighting words! :lol:
 
#15 ·
g-man said:
social port said:
invading bermuda grass?
Please, this is the cool season forum. That is not a grass. It is a noxious weed. Please use Bermuda weed from now on. It's ok Ware will understand and still approve your post.:)
:lol: I agree with CK: Dem's are fighting words. Although I share g-man's disdain for bermuda, it is because I am trying to grow something other than bermuda. It is Invasive. I've seen pictures of it growing on asphalt.
Still, I respect the knowledge and effort required to make bermuda look this good.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d46/schwanz583/Mobile%20Uploads/20170702_174814_zpsc4nwhrt4.jpg

We all do. Also, check out Ware's photo from July 4th in the General discussion. Makes me consider…well, maybe I should just keep this bermuda lawn that has grown up around me.
 
#16 ·
Colonel K0rn said:
It's interesting that you pose this question, since Grass Daddy just released a video of a collab he did with Matt from The Grass Factor about this exact problem.
Yeah, I watched this one earlier today. I didn't know how relevant it was to me at the time. GCI Turf Services has a similar video with a Pylex representative, I believe. Many of the pros are using Pylex, but I am not sure why it is more advantageous than Ornamec. Ornamec had been working just fine for me. The bermuda had just spread beyond my target area--probably with the help of my lawnmower.
 
#17 ·
One of the reasons that it might not be giving the results you want is (I'm not a scientist) the mode of action is different between the two. Ornamec disrupts the synthesis of lipids, and prevents them from being catalyzed. Pylex is an HPPD inhibitor, which basically prevents the plant from creating chlorophyll. As a result, they turn white and die. Seems like it would be a quicker way to kill the plant. For further interesting reading, Wikipedia is your friend.

I look at weed control as being similar to antibiotics that we humans have to take. Sometimes you have to change your method of attack, so you don't get a resistant strain. Know what I mean, Vern?
 
#22 ·
social port said:
Yeah, I watched this one earlier today. I didn't know how relevant it was to me at the time. GCI Turf Services has a similar video with a Pylex representative, I believe. Many of the pros are using Pylex, but I am not sure why it is more advantageous than Ornamec. Ornamec had been working just fine for me. The bermuda had just spread beyond my target area--probably with the help of my lawnmower.
What I'm learning is there are a lot of options for most things lawn care.. There is a spectrum of effectiveness and a spectrum of price. So for simplicity sake I asked Matt what the best way and the cheapest way were. Many others have commented on Ornamec too, and said it's a 3+ year project as well.

For me, I'd just nuke the lawn with glyphosate and start fresh. Now obviously if you already did that, you'd want to use these other methods to keep hurting anything that pops up. Which is what I have to do with nimblewill I discovered in my lawn this week!!
 
#25 ·
GrassDaddy said:
For me, I'd just nuke the lawn with glyphosate and start fresh.
That looks like the route I will be taking. But it borders on the irrational: By this time next year, I would have a full, thick stand of bermuda. I would need to do what…fertilize it and mow short? It spread like floodwater without any effort to cultivate it. Instead, I'm going to spend hundreds of dollars on a complete renovation.
 
#26 ·
ales_gantar said:
Not sure if it is crabgrass or bermuda grass.



I should know, but I'm really not sure. Do you know of anyone in Slovenia with bermuda?
Those blades are a bit concerning. Do you see similar growth anywhere else in your lawn? If so, take a picture if you can. Can you trace it back to a defined plant center (I certainly don't see one in the picture, but I don't know what is outside of the frame)? If you trace shoots of crabgrass, you will find your way back to a center--a nexus for all the shoots. Bermuda lacks this center. Instead, one usually finds one runner after another, and they are connected at seemingly random points.