[Guest]

So with warm season stuff you have the Bermuda Triangle. Celsius, Certainty and a sedge killer.
How about for cool season what are the go to weed killers. I've used Q4 plus with decent results. Just wasn't sure if I was missing something.

 

[JohnP]

I've used 24D, Tenacity, and Triclopyr but not as a tank mix.

 

[pennstater2005]

I've used 24D, Tenacity, and Triclopyr but not as a tank mix.

Same here. Occasionally sulfentrazone for sedges.

 

[g-man]

Missing the most important one, Round Up.

 

[gene_stl]

I started with Q4+ on the recommendation of the manager at my SiteOne. It was good for the first couple of ketchup sprays but I think I like individually formulated sprays for what I am going after now. I doubt I will buy it again when the jug I have is empty. I think it is really good if you missed your pre emergent window since it has quinclorac. But it is a little thin on the broadleaf agents. May be better if you added triclopyr , the bacon of herbicides. (Everything is better with Triclopyr :lol: )(at 32 oz per acre rate)

 

[Guest]

Good information all thanks for sharing. Yeah I agree gene q4 was recommended as like a do it all type thing but I'm still left with weeds in places and now it's to hot to spray.

 

[stotea]

I use Trimec Classic as the "foundation" of my herbicide arsenal. This spring I also tried triclopyr ester on clover and oxalis but with very poor results. In fact, about the only thing it did kill was some fine fescue in my NoMix.

 

[ChrisVoit]

My go to where I live in the Midwest is T-zone for spot sprays & I'll mix in quinclorac if I need to do a blanket app. The triclopyr, sulfentrazone, 2,4-d , Dicamba toast broadleafs over night with a good burn down in a week or 2. I sprayed on a new seeding of KBG this year and it almost killed everything, but the grass kicked back and is doing great now - o keep tenacity on hand for spot spray/pre emg around seedlings.

 

[Killsocket]

I think this is a good topic, but I do have a question of my own.

Does anyone buy concentrated products separately, then make your own "cocktail"? I mean I just use Ortho or Bayer in concentrated forms for my sprayer but always grab the stuff with quinclorac because, well, why not. That has been my mentality. But now I kind of wish I would just get a jug of 2, 4d and a jug of quinclorac and just mix (or anything I may be missing) when it is crabgrass season or, if broadleaf is under control, I can just mix quinclorac to spot spray just crabgrass. Then, aren't I also limiting unnecessary chemicals on my lawn as well.

 

[Delmarva Keith]

I think this is a good topic, but I do have a question of my own.

Does anyone buy concentrated products separately, then make your own "cocktail"? I mean I just use Ortho or Bayer in concentrated forms for my sprayer but always grab the stuff with quinclorac because, well, why not. That has been my mentality. But now I kind of wish I would just get a jug of 2, 4d and a jug of quinclorac and just mix (or anything I may be missing) when it is crabgrass season or, if broadleaf is under control, I can just mix quinclorac to spot spray just crabgrass. Then, aren't I also limiting unnecessary chemicals on my lawn as well.

It depends on how much you generally use each year. The prepackaged cocktails cost a lot more per app but are very convenient and save a lot of time. If you're buying a lot, mixing it yourself saves a lot of money.

I keep a stock of a standard 3 way for broadleaves, quinclorac for crabgrass, sulfentrazone or triclopyr for some of the tougher weeds, tenacity for zapping weeds at or close to seeding, dithiopyr as my go-to pre-emergent, gly & Scythe for hardscapes and directed spray in landscape beds. For surfactants, Southern Ag MSO, Agridex COC, Alligare 90 NIS and a bag of spray grade ammonium sulfate. I'm trying to think of a weed around here my inventory won't kill. Ah, bermuda - that is a very especially diabolical weed.

The Ortho stuff with quinclorac will kill most weeds without any trouble if you get on them early enough, except the tougher perennial legumes and woody / viney weeds (the clovers, thistles and wild violet type weeds). PBI Gordon TZone will do a fine job on them. If you're not using a whole bunch of it every year, might as well not have to mix your own. Has it been working well for you?

 

[gene_stl]

What he said! (@Delmarva Keith)

 

[Richie0320]

I think this is a good topic, but I do have a question of my own.

Does anyone buy concentrated products separately, then make your own "cocktail"? I mean I just use Ortho or Bayer in concentrated forms for my sprayer but always grab the stuff with quinclorac because, well, why not. That has been my mentality. But now I kind of wish I would just get a jug of 2, 4d and a jug of quinclorac and just mix (or anything I may be missing) when it is crabgrass season or, if broadleaf is under control, I can just mix quinclorac to spot spray just crabgrass. Then, aren't I also limiting unnecessary chemicals on my lawn as well.

It depends on how much you generally use each year. The prepackaged cocktails cost a lot more per app but are very convenient and save a lot of time. If you're buying a lot, mixing it yourself saves a lot of money.

I keep a stock of a standard 3 way for broadleaves, quinclorac for crabgrass, sulfentrazone or triclopyr for some of the tougher weeds, tenacity for zapping weeds at or close to seeding, dithiopyr as my go-to pre-emergent, gly & Scythe for hardscapes and directed spray in landscape beds. For surfactants, Southern Ag MSO, Agridex COC, Alligare 90 NIS and a bag of spray grade ammonium sulfate. I'm trying to think of a weed around here my inventory won't kill. Ah, bermuda - that is a very especially diabolical weed.

The Ortho stuff with quinclorac will kill most weeds without any trouble if you get on them early enough, except the tougher perennial legumes and woody / viney weeds (the clovers, thistles and wild violet type weeds). PBI Gordon TZone will do a fine job on them. If you're not using a whole bunch of it every year, might as well not have to mix your own. Has it been working well for you?

Keith, do you deal with red sorrel at all? If so have you had more luck with Sulfentrazone or Triclopy for taking it out? I'm not to far away so figured I might see what you've had luck with.

 

[Delmarva Keith]

I think so. I call it radishes - a broadleaf with a tuberous root? The dicamba and 2-4d in 3 way should smoke it. If that isn't working effectively for you, wait till it's cooler and give it a dose of sulfentrazone.

 

[Guest]

I think this is a good topic, but I do have a question of my own.

Does anyone buy concentrated products separately, then make your own "cocktail"? I mean I just use Ortho or Bayer in concentrated forms for my sprayer but always grab the stuff with quinclorac because, well, why not. That has been my mentality. But now I kind of wish I would just get a jug of 2, 4d and a jug of quinclorac and just mix (or anything I may be missing) when it is crabgrass season or, if broadleaf is under control, I can just mix quinclorac to spot spray just crabgrass. Then, aren't I also limiting unnecessary chemicals on my lawn as well.

It depends on how much you generally use each year. The prepackaged cocktails cost a lot more per app but are very convenient and save a lot of time. If you're buying a lot, mixing it yourself saves a lot of money.

I keep a stock of a standard 3 way for broadleaves, quinclorac for crabgrass, sulfentrazone or triclopyr for some of the tougher weeds, tenacity for zapping weeds at or close to seeding, dithiopyr as my go-to pre-emergent, gly & Scythe for hardscapes and directed spray in landscape beds. For surfactants, Southern Ag MSO, Agridex COC, Alligare 90 NIS and a bag of spray grade ammonium sulfate. I'm trying to think of a weed around here my inventory won't kill. Ah, bermuda - that is a very especially diabolical weed.

The Ortho stuff with quinclorac will kill most weeds without any trouble if you get on them early enough, except the tougher perennial legumes and woody / viney weeds (the clovers, thistles and wild violet type weeds). PBI Gordon TZone will do a fine job on them. If you're not using a whole bunch of it every year, might as well not have to mix your own. Has it been working well for you?

thanks for this. I'll look to pick up a three way and some quinclorac, problem is I have a good bit of what I think is dallisgrass and buttonweed? I know my Celsius I use on warm season grass will work but will kill my fescue what are my options for it in a cool season grass because both of those weeds are taking over.

 

[Delmarva Keith]

thanks for this. I'll look to pick up a three way and some quinclorac, problem is I have a good bit of what I think is dallisgrass and buttonweed? I know my Celsius I use on warm season grass will work but will kill my fescue what are my options for it in a cool season grass because both of those weeds are taking over.

Those are both tough weeds in a cool season lawn.

MSMA was banned for residential use so there's no cool season selective that works well that I know of for dallisgrass. If I had a problem with dallisgrass, I'd smoke the clumps with gly in late Summer and reseed. I've heard fusillade type programs such as for killing bermuda will work but I can't say either way.

Three way will eventually kill buttonweed - may take multiple applications and get after it as early in the season as possible. If it's late Summer hardened off and out of control, gly and reseed.

 

[g-man]

Per this Purdue link, tenacity at 5oz/acre rate two weeks interval should reduce dalligrass by 75%. I would use round up.

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2016/07/weed-of-month-for-august-2015-is-field.html?m=1

 

[Guest]

Per this Purdue link, tenacity at 5oz/acre rate two weeks interval should reduce dalligrass by 75%. I would use round up.

http://purdueturftips.blogspot.com/2016/07/weed-of-month-for-august-2015-is-field.html?m=1

Is that for cost or just for success rate?

 

[g-man]

?

 

[Guest]

?

Sorry g-man I meant to quote Del. about the glyphosphate

 

[Delmarva Keith]

Is that for cost or just for success rate?

I said gly for success rate. You have two of the more difficult weeds to selectively kill in a cool season lawn, especially this late in the season. A single application of even nonselective gly might not get it all. Spray gly, keep watering regularly for several days to a week, spray gly again on anything even remotely green. That should (will very likely) do the job. When the new seed establishes this Fall and then thickens up in Spring, those weeds will just be a bad memory.

If you're reluctant to do that, try the selectives (including g-man's idea for the dallisgrass) and reseed this Fall. If you don't yet have a successful Fall reseed under your belt, I can understand the risk aversion to just killing large areas. If you don't just kill it all, worst case is you have the same weeds to deal with but many are easier to kill in Spring and the dense new stand will crowd many weeds out. Whatever is left by the following Fall can be zapped with gly and reseed those spots again.

Once you do a successful Fall cool season grass planting and you see it start growing until winter and then really jump in the Spring, you'll have the confidence to just kill as much as you want, even all of it and start over without hesitation.