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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody!

I'm on a roll asking for everyone's guidance lately, so let's continue that momentum with some opinions..

I have a slope in my backyard. Before I aerated my lawn last fall, the bottom of this hill would not grow. Not weeds, not bermuda, nothing. Post-aeration I got tons of grass, but I got even more weeds due to the, what I'm assuming, weeds seeds being pulled up. Since then I have constantly battled crabgrass in an attempt to get the Bermuda to crowd out the weeds. It seems like I am losing this battle day in and day out.

In May I applied a heavy hand (.06 ounces/1k on accident) of Prodiamine and watered it in nicely (half an inch). As for the existing crabgrass, I applied Quinclorac and once they were dead, I hand pulled them up. Every other day I am pulling up more and more crabgrass. I don't mind being in the lawn, actually I love it, however I am spending more time pulling up this crabgrass than any other aspect of lawn management.

For the past few months my wife and I have been deciding on what we want to do at the bottom of the slope as it is more of an eye sore when looking out from our patio. We decided on Crape Myrtles to gain more privacy because if you are standing on our patio, you can see our neighbors living room, and every night I wave at them when they are eating dinner at the table.. We will also be laying down river rock 4 feet out from the fence.

I am thinking about killing the grass from about 4 feet out because I just don't know what to do at this point. It won't completely eliminate my crabgrass issue as it extends farther than 4ft, but it will reduce my problem. I hate killing the grass, even though we have plans moving forward, but I feel like the crabgrass wins, I lose, and I'm not happy with losing.. So I'm asking you guys, am I doing something wrong from the pictures? Is there another method of attack I can utilize? Thanks in advance as always.





 

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Tex86 said:
In May I applied a heavy hand (.06 ounces/1k on accident) of Prodiamine and watered it in nicely (half an inch)...
So specifically, which Prodiamine product did you use? If you used the popular Prodiamine 65WDG (which is 65% active ingredient), 0.06oz per thousand would only be like ~7% of the max annual rate for a Bermuda lawn... not enough.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, it was the Prodiamine 65 WDG.

Since its a low concentration of the annual recommendation, would it be safe to say to administer another application?
 

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Yeah, I would probably apply another 0.35oz per k now. Then apply the other half of the annual max (0.41oz per k) in September - or whenever fall pre-e is appropriate for Texas.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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Does that area get full sun? If so, how much fertilizer have you applied to that area? Do you have irrigation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Redtenchu said:
+1 Ware.

I wouldn't nuke the area, in lawn care you must play the long game. Keep hitting the area with what works and let the Pre-E claim that section back next year. You're doing great!
Thank you. Is my back supposed to hurt this bad at age 31? ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mightyquinn said:
Does that area get full sun? If so, how much fertilizer have you applied to that area? Do you have irrigation?
Yes, full sun all day:l fence doesn't block any.
No irrigation but I water and I monitor to see of its running down the hill. 1 inch every week, but if it gets 100 or above I do 1.5 split between the week.

I put .6 lbs of a 19-5-10 every month as it was recommended on this board. Before that its straight Milorganite.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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I would recommend on doubling the amount of 19-5-10 you are applying to that area and be sure to give it a little extra water. I warn you that the bermuda WILL take off and start filling in that area post haste, so you may need to up your mowing in that area too. Keep attacking the weeds as you have been and see how the area looks by the end of the year. I'm wiling to bet that it will be one of the thickest parts of the lawn.

I'm assuming by ".6 lbs of 19-5-10 every month" you meant to say that you are applying 3 lbs of fertilizer every month which equates to .6 lbs of Nitrogen every month?

What I'm recommending is for you to basically push the bermuda to choke out all the weeds and to thicken up too. The amount of fertilizer you are applying is basically a maintenance amount which is fine if you already have a thick stand of turf but if you need filling in then around 1 lb of Nitrogen a month will let that happen.
 

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Tex86 said:
...I put .6 lbs of a 19-5-10 every month as it was recommended on this board. Before that its straight Milorganite.
0.6 pounds per thousand?

Someone check my math, but 0.6 pounds of 19-x-x would only be like 0.11 pounds of N per k.

ETA: MQ beat me to it. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mightyquinn said:
I would recommend on doubling the amount of 19-5-10 you are applying to that area and be sure to give it a little extra water. I warn you that the bermuda WILL take off and start filling in that area post haste, so you may need to up your mowing in that area too. Keep attacking the weeds as you have been and see how the area looks by the end of the year. I'm wiling to bet that it will be one of the thickest parts of the lawn.

I'm assuming by ".6 lbs of 19-5-10 every month" you meant to say that you are applying 3 lbs of fertilizer every month which equates to .6 lbs of Nitrogen every month?

What I'm recommending is for you to basically push the bermuda to choke out all the weeds and to thicken up too. The amount of fertilizer you are applying is basically a maintenance amount which is fine if you already have a thick stand of turf but if you need filling in then around 1 lb of Nitrogen a month will let that happen.
This is why I love this forum. Correct, 3lbs every month, equaling. 6lbs of N.

I have no qualms mowing every other day if I have too. Should I increase water to 2 inches weekly?

Also, going off the pictures, should I bag the clippings even though there are no seed heads?
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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You may NOT have to increase the water to 2 inches weekly, just keep an eye on it and play it by ear. What HOC are you mowing at right now? You shouldn't have to bag unless you want to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got it.

Current HOC is 1.75. Grass is a bit stressed as I used to cut it at 2.5", then chopped it down. Currently it's at 2" but will be mowing tomorrow.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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You may have to mow 2-3 times a week at that HOC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
csbutler said:
I've been battling crab grass in my backyard since the start of spring. I'm turning the corner and seeing less and less. Don't give up! Fight the fight! :thumbup:
Thanks buddy!
 

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You could put the annual max, or at least the single application max of prodiamine down now and then switch to dithiopyr or pendamethalin or another pre-emergent for your winter annuals.

I was plannning to bring this up on the Bermuda Triangle thread. I plan to post a more through version of this response next week when I have refined my thoughts a little more.

Pendamethlin may not be the ideal pre em when trying to establish a turf. It's is dinitroaniline (DNA) herbicide and those can cause root clubbing.

If you are trying to fill in an area now by pushing your existing Bermuda to spread, I would consider dithiopyr and then a lot of fast release nitrogen. One pound of N every 7-10 days would be plenty if you are trying to push growth. It would be 5.26lb of your 19-5-10, per thousand square feet.
 

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Movingshrub said:
You could put the annual max, or at least the single application max of prodiamine down now and then switch to dithiopyr or pendamethalin or another pre-emergent for your winter annuals...
Not necessary with Prodiamine... half the annual max for Bermuda yields 6 months of control...



 
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