R&R products, 120 or 180 grit, start with 120 in a 10# can. Tighten up the reel and keep moving if the edges feel sharp and cuts clean.
************ compound
So I just did my first cut with the reel mower. It was backlapped before I got it and it was cutting well. But after I got done mowing the bedknife to reel needs adjusting (it was almost free spinning after I got done, is that normal?)
I don't think i'll need to backlap it again but eventually I will. Where can I get it?
I don't think i'll need to backlap it again but eventually I will. Where can I get it?
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I use the R&R compound - both 120 and 180 grit. I start with 120 and finish with 180. It works great, but 10 lbs is a lot of compound.
I know some members here have bought the Pinhigh because it is available in smaller containers.
I know some members here have bought the Pinhigh because it is available in smaller containers.
Most likely you just need to adjust the clearance which shouldn't be too hard to do.kur1j said:So I just did my first cut with the reel mower. It was backlapped before I got it and it was cutting well. But after I got done mowing the bedknife to reel needs adjusting (it was almost free spinning after I got done, is that normal?)
I don't think i'll need to backlap it again but eventually I will. Where can I get it?
Looks good, Silverado!Silverado said:Here's what the 5lb containers look like from pin high
Nice!Silverado said:Here's what the 5lb containers look like from pin high
What can I use to attach the reel to my drill?
I've used a socket and duck tape and a wire brush and duct tape. There is an art to it. When I get the time I'd really like to fabricate a better solution. Check out Red's video
http://www.thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=515
http://www.thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=515
I bought the 120 and 180.
Grabbed an old paint brush, pulled the guard off the tru cut, loosened the chain tensioner, and used the 3/4 socket attached to my drill. Propped it back and off I went. Took me like 10 min to do it. Got really quiet, added the 180 and it was like butter after a few passes.
Cut was extremely clean. Took mere minutes and my reel sounded so much better.. hosed it off and it nipped paper without a single adjustment.
Good product for sure
Grabbed an old paint brush, pulled the guard off the tru cut, loosened the chain tensioner, and used the 3/4 socket attached to my drill. Propped it back and off I went. Took me like 10 min to do it. Got really quiet, added the 180 and it was like butter after a few passes.
Cut was extremely clean. Took mere minutes and my reel sounded so much better.. hosed it off and it nipped paper without a single adjustment.
Good product for sure
I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to do it on a JD 220C. I just don't know what I can use to connect the reel shaft to a drill or something.Silverado said:I've used a socket and duck tape and a wire brush and duct tape. There is an art to it. When I get the time I'd really like to fabricate a better solution. Check out Red's video
http://www.thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=515
Here are the backlapping instructions for a JD 220C. It looks like it calls for a 3/8" bolt (step #3).kur1j said:I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to do it on a JD 220C. I just don't know what I can use to connect the reel shaft to a drill or something.
You can view your manual at manuals.deere.com.
But what is a backlapping bolt? I saw it but I can't find anything on what a backlapping bolt is.Ware said:Here are the backlapping instructions for a JD 220C. It looks like it calls for a 3/8" bolt (step #3).kur1j said:I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to do it on a JD 220C. I just don't know what I can use to connect the reel shaft to a drill or something.
You can view your manual at manuals.deere.com.
I don't own a JD 220C, but I am assuming it is just a 3/8" bolt that you thread into the reel shaft - something that you can put a socket on to spin the reel backwards.kur1j said:But what is a backlapping bolt? I saw it but I can't find anything on what a backlapping bolt is.
https://youtu.be/NowflP0Brao?t=14m10s
ETA: Here is Redtenchu's response to your question from another thread...
A 3/8" bolt has a 9/16" head, so it sounds like you should be able to just thread a 3/8" bolt into the reel shaft - or buy the 32mm socket he mentions.Redtenchu said:You can use a large 32 mm socket, or if you look a little closer you can see some threads for a bolt to attach in the center of the shaft. I found something at lowes that matched the threads with a 9/16 head.
Double check the owner manual linked previously in the thread for the correct thread pitch/size.
Ordered some pinhigh to have for backlapping. How do you guys know wether to backlap or have the reel sharpened and bedknife replaced?
Before every cut I check the cut across the face with a small sticky note pad.
I do the paper test after I get done mowing to see if it needs a backlap or adjusted before the next cut.Mpreslar said:Ordered some pinhigh to have for backlapping. How do you guys know wether to backlap or have the reel sharpened and bedknife replaced?
I don't know when you know the reel needs ground vs just backlapped. I guess it would eventually stop holding a good edge where you need to backlap more frequently than normal. Or you notice the reel is getting out of round.
I look for wear on the leading edge of the bedknife. Unless you have a micro cut bedknife it should have a blunt flat face instead of like a knife edge. If it looks like a knifes edge it might need faced professionally or replace.
I need to talk with the local golf courses and see who sharpens their reels. Ive heard some won't work on personal equipment but some will it just depends on the course. I do know you're not very high on their priority list so it might be a week or 2 before you get it back. A reel for my JD220B cost $205 and the bedknife is $30. It might be a bit more expensive (I don't know the cost for a grind) but it would be way more convenient to be able to replace it some evening than have my mower be gone for 2 weeks in the middle of the growing season.
The JD260 I got from auction won't cut paper right now, I was impatient and scalped the yard down to 0.5" anyways, lol. Hopefully after backlapping it will pass the paper test, I have some 80, 120, and 180 grit on the way. Thanks for the help guys!
Just FYI, if you do plan on getting your mower sharpened professionally, I would recommend doing it during the offseason as most courses won't be mowing as often and will have more time to work on your mower plus you don't have to worry about getting it back in time to mow.
Thanks! I actually just saw it now long before you posted it.Ware said:I don't own a JD 220C, but I am assuming it is just a 3/8" bolt that you thread into the reel shaft - something that you can put a socket on to spin the reel backwards.kur1j said:But what is a backlapping bolt? I saw it but I can't find anything on what a backlapping bolt is.
https://youtu.be/NowflP0Brao?t=14m10s
ETA: Here is Redtenchu's response to your question from another thread...
A 3/8" bolt has a 9/16" head, so it sounds like you should be able to just thread a 3/8" bolt into the reel shaft - or buy the 32mm socket he mentions.Redtenchu said:You can use a large 32 mm socket, or if you look a little closer you can see some threads for a bolt to attach in the center of the shaft. I found something at lowes that matched the threads with a 9/16 head.
Double check the owner manual linked previously in the thread for the correct thread pitch/size.
I got a 32mm socket, ran it with my drill and it worked great.
How long do people generally go without adjusting the bedknife to reel? It seems after me mowing my 5500sqft lawn that I need to adjust it after every mow slightly. Is that normal? Aren't these things supposed to be ran for like 4-8 hours a day mowing greens? Would it not be annoying as hell for them to have to adjust every time they finish a hole?
I backlapped my unit yesterday. I adjust it where it wasn't even touching but barely. Put some compound on and ran it for a good 3-5 minutes, and reapplied every 30 seconds or so.
At that point it cut paper really well. Now just hope that it stays sharp and only small adjustments need to be made instead of having to backlap every other mow.
I also still don't quite get how a .001" gauge comes in. If the bedknife is where the .001" gauge will move across the bedknife freely it won't cut paper. If it's backlapped and the .001" is *just* snug it cuts the paper.
I backlapped my unit yesterday. I adjust it where it wasn't even touching but barely. Put some compound on and ran it for a good 3-5 minutes, and reapplied every 30 seconds or so.
At that point it cut paper really well. Now just hope that it stays sharp and only small adjustments need to be made instead of having to backlap every other mow.
I also still don't quite get how a .001" gauge comes in. If the bedknife is where the .001" gauge will move across the bedknife freely it won't cut paper. If it's backlapped and the .001" is *just* snug it cuts the paper.
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