I've used Speedzone in the December time frame with success.
Cold Weather Broadleaf Control
I was watching TheGrassFactor's video on youtube, titled, All about 3 way broadleaf herbicides - and how to make them work better, which is driving my question.
I'm operating under the assumption that Celsius isn't going to be as effective when the weather turns cold. I haven't experimented yet myself; the weather might not have an impact at all. I didn't have Celsius last fall/winter, so zero experience using it in cool/cold weather.
For you fellow warm-season guys trying to control fall/winter broadleaf weeds, are you all using Celsius and NIS? Celsius and MSO? Celsius with Certainty and either NIS or MSO? Celsius + Carfentrazone? Using a three-way ester like speedzone?
My Bermuda is not dormant yet so I am adverse to using anything with triclopyr. Furthermore, considering I have a hybrid Bermuda, I am hesitant to use anything containing quinclorac.
Also, anyone using Image for (indaziflam) for wild onion and wild garlic control or sticking with your standard approach?
Would love to hear yalls thoughts. Thanks
I'm operating under the assumption that Celsius isn't going to be as effective when the weather turns cold. I haven't experimented yet myself; the weather might not have an impact at all. I didn't have Celsius last fall/winter, so zero experience using it in cool/cold weather.
For you fellow warm-season guys trying to control fall/winter broadleaf weeds, are you all using Celsius and NIS? Celsius and MSO? Celsius with Certainty and either NIS or MSO? Celsius + Carfentrazone? Using a three-way ester like speedzone?
My Bermuda is not dormant yet so I am adverse to using anything with triclopyr. Furthermore, considering I have a hybrid Bermuda, I am hesitant to use anything containing quinclorac.
Also, anyone using Image for (indaziflam) for wild onion and wild garlic control or sticking with your standard approach?
Would love to hear yalls thoughts. Thanks
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Celsius and Certainty should still work just fine at lower temps but it will take longer to see the kill of the weed. I guess it all depends on how fast you want to see a kill of the targeted weed(s). I always try to use MSO or NIS when spraying weeds as it adds in a little bit of insurance.
Just FYI, I still have a bottle of Bayer Southern weed killer that I am trying to use up so I am currently using that during the cooler months to use it up but I don't plan on buying anymore of it.
Just FYI, I still have a bottle of Bayer Southern weed killer that I am trying to use up so I am currently using that during the cooler months to use it up but I don't plan on buying anymore of it.
I am okay with a slower but complete kill.
I have NIS. I was unsure if a MSO or COC would be required to ensure penetration of the herbicide during cool temperatures.
I have NIS. I was unsure if a MSO or COC would be required to ensure penetration of the herbicide during cool temperatures.
http://www.tennesseeturfgrassweeds.org/Lists/Fact Sheets/Attachments/7/W212updated2015.pdf
I've had success with Sulfentrazone in cooler weather
I've had success with Sulfentrazone in cooler weather
celsius contains a fair amount of dicamba, so yes it will work in the cold, but because dicamba is mostly root absorbed, it will work slower. the iodosulfuron and thiencarbazone aren't as powerful on broadleaf weeds, so you'll see a diminished overall effect on broadleaf and grassy weeds.Movingshrub said:I was watching TheGrassFactor's video on youtube, titled, All about 3 way broadleaf herbicides - and how to make them work better, which is driving my question.
I'm operating under the assumption that Celsius isn't going to be as effective when the weather turns cold. I haven't experimented yet myself; the weather might not have an impact at all. I didn't have Celsius last fall/winter, so zero experience using it in cool/cold weather.
For you fellow warm-season guys trying to control fall/winter broadleaf weeds, are you all using Celsius and NIS? Celsius and MSO? Celsius with Certainty and either NIS or MSO? Celsius + Carfentrazone? Using a three-way ester like speedzone?
My Bermuda is not dormant yet so I am adverse to using anything with triclopyr. Furthermore, considering I have a hybrid Bermuda, I am hesitant to use anything containing quinclorac.
Also, anyone using Image for (indaziflam) for wild onion and wild garlic control or sticking with your standard approach?
Would love to hear yalls thoughts. Thanks
adding carfentrazone or sulfentrazone will heat the mix, but i'd recommend adding MCPA or 2,4-d to your celsius to "complete" your kill.
image works well on garlic.
Does that need to be a 2,4-d ester or would an anime work? What about just adding a MSO or COC to the Celsius mix?thegrassfactor said:celsius contains a fair amount of dicamba, so yes it will work in the cold, but because dicamba is mostly root absorbed, it will work slower. the iodosulfuron and thiencarbazone aren't as powerful on broadleaf weeds, so you'll see a diminished overall effect on broadleaf and grassy weeds.
adding carfentrazone or sulfentrazone will heat the mix, but i'd recommend adding MCPA or 2,4-d to your celsius to "complete" your kill.
image works well on garlic.
amine will work fine. an MSO or COC will aid in tissue absorption, but will not assist in the root uptake of dicamba.
let me make things clear though - to me, the cost isn't worth the reward. Again, you're relying on the dicamba portion of the 3 parts of Celsius to control your winter weeds. That's just not effective. I'd snag a gallon of battleship III and use it on broadleaf weeds. it has triclopyr, but at a low rate. The problem is, celsius isn't going to help you in situations of cudweed, thistles, field madder, speedwell (maybe), and violets(will work on violets but not as well as battleship III). And at such a high cost per acre, I'd be much more inclined to use a product that will give a much higher % result, especially since it's cheaper. With battleship III, you'll have 3 actives working for you - not one, such as is the case with celsius(dicamba).
If you're still against it, go with a product like MSM and run it with a half rate of 3 way amine (.75oz/k). If you have any oak trees though, I'd highly recommend you NOT use it.
(I know you're concerned with using the triclopyr, but triclopyr causes foliar damage to bermuda, not root harm. It's use in controlling bermuda is to keep foliage damaged during the carbohydrate storage cycle (we're pretty much past that))
let me make things clear though - to me, the cost isn't worth the reward. Again, you're relying on the dicamba portion of the 3 parts of Celsius to control your winter weeds. That's just not effective. I'd snag a gallon of battleship III and use it on broadleaf weeds. it has triclopyr, but at a low rate. The problem is, celsius isn't going to help you in situations of cudweed, thistles, field madder, speedwell (maybe), and violets(will work on violets but not as well as battleship III). And at such a high cost per acre, I'd be much more inclined to use a product that will give a much higher % result, especially since it's cheaper. With battleship III, you'll have 3 actives working for you - not one, such as is the case with celsius(dicamba).
If you're still against it, go with a product like MSM and run it with a half rate of 3 way amine (.75oz/k). If you have any oak trees though, I'd highly recommend you NOT use it.
(I know you're concerned with using the triclopyr, but triclopyr causes foliar damage to bermuda, not root harm. It's use in controlling bermuda is to keep foliage damaged during the carbohydrate storage cycle (we're pretty much past that))
I am not set, exclusively, on Celsius. I just didn't want to waste the product if it wasn't going to do the job, or to go out and buy another product if the Celsius would do the trick. I do have Certainity on-hand as well.
I wasn't sure what amount of triclopyr was considered enough to do damage. I have some Crossbow on hand sitting around gathering dust; It's 2,4-d ester at 34.4% and triclopyr BEE at 16.5%.
Sounds like I'd be just as well served to use Speedzone (Carfentrazone, 2,4-d ester, MCPP, and dicamba), Trimec Classic (2,4-d amine, MCPP, and dicamba), or maybe momentum (2,4-D, triclopyr and fluroxypyr).
Digressing briefly - what is the difference between 2,4-d and 2,4-dp?
I wasn't sure what amount of triclopyr was considered enough to do damage. I have some Crossbow on hand sitting around gathering dust; It's 2,4-d ester at 34.4% and triclopyr BEE at 16.5%.
Sounds like I'd be just as well served to use Speedzone (Carfentrazone, 2,4-d ester, MCPP, and dicamba), Trimec Classic (2,4-d amine, MCPP, and dicamba), or maybe momentum (2,4-D, triclopyr and fluroxypyr).
Digressing briefly - what is the difference between 2,4-d and 2,4-dp?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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