Look into making your own Soil Conditioner... here's a good post to check out.

 

I would start with baby shampoo, it is inexpensive and will help to allow moisture to penetrate the surface of the soil. I have used this and have had great results.

Over time you should consider using a biosolid based fertilizer, along with adding compost or other topdressings to change the composition of your soil.

Mechanical core aeration will also benefit your situation greatly.

Good luck!

 

One of the main keys is to get organic material into the soil - you can accomplish by top dressing with compost or using a bio-solid fertilizer as Dan mentioned. Most easy to find is Milorganite - most all big box stores carry it.

You can also look into adding humates or humic acid. I put down the one below last year, and am happy with the results. Humates hep to condition the soil as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D9F3QY0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I aerated and overseeded in the fall, and broadcast my first application of Milorganite last week. I plan on broadcasting Milorganite several more times over the spring, summer and fall. I may try the humoc acid recommended as well. This clay soil is a bear. Thank you all for the recommendations!! ☺

 

I am in the same situation. Does anyone know the science behind adding a top dressing? Does it work by A) just adding "non clay" (organic matter) to the ground thus mixing in with the clay and breaking down the clay or B) is it just a matter of getting living organisms down on the ground that will eventually break down the clay turning it into a loamy soil?

In a heavy clay soil I would think if scenario A) were the case that the amount of top dressing needed to break it down would add a lot of soil to the ground raising it up significantly (also be very expensive on a very large yard). However, if Scenario B is correct then I would imagine more is better just to speed up the process. I'm working with 15,000 sq ft. and a truck load of compost would cost me about $150-200 to do.

 

The point of top dressing is to increase organic matter and microbiology of the soil. The organic matter is what helps with water absorption and retention, the microbiology of the soil (living organisms) are what will release the nutrients to be taken up by the plants. This would be best applied immediately following aeration to help incorporate into the soil quicker and more efficiently. If by a truck load you mean a dump truck this sounds like a good deal and is approaching the correct amount needed to top dress 15k each season. If that is a pickup truck load... Keep looking, you'll need a lot more than that.. A LOT.

Most importantly, get a soil test done and give the soil what it needs!

 

The point of top dressing is to increase organic matter and microbiology of the soil. The organic matter is what helps with water absorption and retention, the microbiology of the soil (living organisms) are what will release the nutrients to be taken up by the plants. This would be best applied immediately following aeration to help incorporate into the soil quicker and more efficiently. If by a truck load you mean a dump truck this sounds like a good deal and is approaching the correct amount needed to top dress 15k each season. If that is a pickup truck load... Keep looking, you'll need a lot more than that.. A LOT.

Most importantly, get a soil test done and give the soil what it needs!

Per the city's website " The price per unit for bulk is: $12 per cubic yard for 1 to 10 cubic yards, $8 per cubic yard for 11 to 500 cubic yards and $6 per cubic yard for 501+ cubic yards. See the Delivery Options tab below for details on delivery fees and service area."

I need about 24 cu yds for 1/2" deep which is about $197. Delivery charge is $50. So $250. I plan on getting eventually getting a truck but I don't know how much will fit in a 5.5" bed. It's possible they will split it up and I make several trips although not ideal.

Let's say I have 3ft of hard clay, realistically how many years of top dressing am I going to need to do? Is it permanent or just until soil tests say I have enough?

 

Depends on your goals and where you are to start. The key to that answer is a soil test. Using basic math with the numbers you provided, 3 ft is 36 inches of soil. If 24cu yds is 1/2" depth and assuming compost is at least 50% organic matter, you would be increasing your soils OM by .6% each application.

Reality is, it'll take much much longer to get to a depth of 3 ft. So it'll increase OM in the top 4" much quicker.

Again to summarize your answers as clear as possible, soil test now, apply OM after aeration, re-test soil in a year or two and re-evaluate. It's not going to be fast enough to overshoot your goal in a year or two.

Also I'm certainly no expert on compost purchases, I've done enough research to figure out it doesn't make sense for my budget, but from what I understand you may want to check multiple sources of compost. Some people don't trust the city's compost. Some people don't trust the independents analysis either...

 

You could also look into adding kelp meal, or any other organic material if you don't want to go the compost route. Certainly a lot easier to spread.

http://greenearthagandturf.com/neptunes-harvest-kelp-meal.shtml

Pete at GCI Turf has a natural starter pack on his website from Greene County Fertilizers, which the new age lawncare guys on YouTube are all raging about. I'm thinking about purchasing for my lawn, price is great if you don't mind spraying liquid. Pete's channel is full of fantastic info if you guys haven't checked him out yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH0FftmS7ag - video on bio stimulants

https://www.gciturfacademy.com/product/bio-stimulant-package/