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This is just a friendly reminder to take it easy when applying Celsius, either spot spraying, or not. Not only is calibration of your sprayer a very important step, but getting the right nozzle (TeeJet) is also important. Sometimes we lawn geeks are exposed to cool products that aren't available from the big box stores. Just remember, there is a reason they are not sold in big box stores, and careful application is required.

1) Throw away the measuring cup that comes with Celsius. That way, you aren't tempted to use it.
2) Even though the new Celsius label has a teaspoon guide, I recommend buying a small gram scale and measuring out your ounces by weight (not fluid ounces).
3) Make sure you have a sprayer that accepts quality nozzles, like the ones outlined here.
4) Remember that a little dab'll do ya.

I was only going to spot treat, so I didn't feel the need to calibrate. Wrong answer! Fortunately I grow the greatest, heartiest, simplest, and toughest grass known to man. It's a weed called Bermudagrass, and I love it. I try and treat it well, so it is trying to treat me well. These pics are two weeks apart, but I think I was lucky. Don't make my mistake, or you'll spend an entire season bringing your lawn back. Good luck, spray at will, and take it easy. :cool:

All the best,

dfw



 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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Yes, Celsius is labeled to control many broadleaf and grassy weeds in St. Augustine lawns.

At about $100 for a 10oz bottle it is definitely an investment, but the low application rates actually make it significantly cheaper (per square foot of treatment) than most selective herbicides you will find in a box store. Depending on the size of your lawn, a bottle could last you many years.

Welcome to The Lawn Forum!
 

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Pulled the trigger today at my local site one. 99$. Cheapest i've found.

DFW: what rate did u use? Low medium or high?
And did you soak the weeds or just lightly hit them?

 

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Alan said:
ajmikola said:
Pulled the trigger today at my local site one. 99$. Cheapest i've found.

DFW: what rate did u use? Low medium or high?
And did you soak the weeds or just lightly hit them?

The weeds just need a spritz; they do not need to be "soaked".
Big +1 on the spritz!

I use the high rate of 0.113oz/gal for spot spraying. Note that is ounces weight, not volume.
 

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Yeah I wasn't happy with the lesco tip that came with the sprayer. I only spritzed the weeds so I hope I didn't kill the grass.

On another note, I must have hit over 100 weeds. I used Pre-M so what gives? Do I need to put more down?
 

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southernguy311 said:
ajmikola said:
Yeah I wasn't happy with the lesco tip that came with the sprayer. I only spritzed the weeds so I hope I didn't kill the grass.

On another note, I must have hit over 100 weeds. I used Pre-M so what gives? Do I need to put more down?
What kind of Pre-M? What kind of weeds? Broadleaf?
Dimension I believe, all kinds of weeds. Grassy and broadleaf. Mostly broadleaf.
 

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Were the weeds in an area where you had poor turf coverage last season? I believe everyone still gets broadleafs here and there. They are easy to control with post emergent so I wouldn't worry too much. Now if you start seeing a bunch of goosegrass/crabgrass/johnsongrass/poa annua then I would review your spacing and timing of application going forward. I'm a firm believer in split applications as are most of us here.
 

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ajmikola said:
Yeah I wasn't happy with the lesco tip that came with the sprayer. I only spritzed the weeds so I hope I didn't kill the grass.

On another note, I must have hit over 100 weeds. I used Pre-M so what gives? Do I need to put more down?
I always have a few break-through weeds, but seemed to have more this year. I helped my neighbor pre-e his lawn a couple weeks after mine and he has even more than I do. I decided my timing was probably borderline and his was too late.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong - timing, application rate, inadequate or too much rainfall following application, and how long you have been on a good pre-e regimen (i.e. if you had a lot of weeds last year, there are more seeds in the ground that can germinate and break-through this year).

I wouldn't worry too much... pre-e is a very important part of a good weed control program, but it's just one side of the Bermuda Triangle.

As for applying more, that depends on where you are in your pre-e application plan - taking into consideration the annual max application rate. If you need help with that plan or those calculations, feel free to start a new thread so it doesn't get lost in this Celsius (post-emergent) thread. It would likely help someone else in the future. If you do, be sure and let us know exactly which pre-e you are using, as I don't think Dimension (AI - Dithiopyr) offers the same length of control as Barricade (AI - Prodiamine).
 

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Does anyone have experience with celsius around Ground covers like Mondo grass? I couldn't find anything in the label about it. I realize Mondo grass isn't actually a grass but I wanted to check before I experimented.
 

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Pharmower said:
Does anyone have experience with celsius around Ground covers like Mondo grass? I couldn't find anything in the label about it. I realize Mondo grass isn't actually a grass but I wanted to check before I experimented.
Good question. The Celsius label mentions:

  • Some ornamentals may be sensitive to this product. Do not plant ornamentals or bedding plants in treated bare
    areas for at least 30 days after the last application of this product.
  • Avoid application of this product near the roots of newly planted ornamentals.

You could always try it in a small area. Alternatively, the table in this document from The University of Tennessee says Imazaquin (Image®) is labeled for use on Mondo grass for postemergence selective weed control. The Image label agrees, and says it controls these weeds:

 
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