Thought I'd make a new thread for this and hopefully get some more people on board with it. It effectively cleared every single weed in my yard with no harm to the grass. Dead, gone, no trace. My neighbor, who's yard has never been taken care of was spraying his with whatever he was using. Terrible crab grass and many other types all over it. I brought over a weighed out max amount for 4 gallons and told him to empty his sprayer and mix this instead. This was about 3 weeks ago - he came to me today and said to look at his lawn. It killed absolutely EVERYTHING and all that is left is grass. It's never looked better haha! Absolutely amazing stuff! Go buy some!
Celsius = Awesome!
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+1 :thumbup: I'm a big believer in the stuff too!Kustrud said:
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Ill get that after I run out of 2,4D with Dicamba. Cheap and effective, but some stuff it doesn't kill.
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+1Redtenchu said:
I sprayed my mother-in-laws yard with it and have said more than once that it doesn't look like its working, but believe me its working :lol:
Sure enough, the yard is weed free now
Considering your neighbor probably does not have a Lawn Forum Signature Series sprayer, what sprayer did he use? I have Celsius but have never used it. Ive seen members here smoke their lawn with it and report they did not even use much or used some Home Depot sprayer. It makes me nervous.
You shouldn't be nervous about using it and it doesn't require any special equipment. The only piece of advice I would give you is all you need is a light mist on the weed. More is NOT better when it comes to CelsiusRockinar said:
Celsius was designed to be safe enough for lawn care professionals treating St Augustine in the middle of summer in Florida. As long as it is applied so that label amount or something close to it on the given area it is safe. You cannot apply something like Trimec or Weed B Gon to St Augustine under similar conditions. I broadcast apply to entire lawns at label rates. The only sign to me and my customers that it is working is the weeds stop growing and shrink into the lawn. No burning or browning. Grass also should not turn yellow either. If it does, it is on you for not fertilizing the grass adequately.
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Does everybody use MSO with Celcius or a regular surfactant?
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I've only used a NIS, but that's only because nothing I have sprayed has called for MSO.
Only things I have used that call for NIS, but I use MSO for are Monument and Certainty. Only time that changes is if I am spraying and it is over 85*. Then, I put away the MSO and use nonionic only. Otherwise most products with the exception of Glyphosate and Amine broadleaf weed killer work better with MSO. Just know and understand the effect of that addition. It will make an application that much more effective vs NIS. The low to medium rate of Celsius is enough for me because I know when to use MSO.
I was part of product testing and evaluation for Bayer the year after it got approved for use. Based on what I told them about my observations under both cool conditions, hot conditions, and on big, mature weeds, they added warnings concerning usage of MSO with Celsius. I suspect Tribute Total was based on a tank mix I used on a lawn that had Nutsedge, broadleaf weeds, and grassy weeds. It was Revolver, Certainty, and Celsius. Certainty was still under a Patent, so they used Halosulfuron(Sedgehammer) instead, to make an all in one fairway and lawn clean up product.
I was part of product testing and evaluation for Bayer the year after it got approved for use. Based on what I told them about my observations under both cool conditions, hot conditions, and on big, mature weeds, they added warnings concerning usage of MSO with Celsius. I suspect Tribute Total was based on a tank mix I used on a lawn that had Nutsedge, broadleaf weeds, and grassy weeds. It was Revolver, Certainty, and Celsius. Certainty was still under a Patent, so they used Halosulfuron(Sedgehammer) instead, to make an all in one fairway and lawn clean up product.
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What's an MSO?
COC is simply an emulsifiable petroieum oil with low solvent power. MSO, is methylated seed oil. Methylated seed oil is a better solvent for organic compounds vs COC. What happens in the spray tank is that the herbicide tends to partition into the MSO. The MSO with the herbicide penetrates through waxes on the weed leaves carrying a high concentration of herbicides dissolved in that oil phase. COC does this, but not as well as MSO, because it is not as good a solvent. Both are good at delaying drying of a spray and evaporation. BTW, for Simazine or Atrazine, oil is a necessary additive if going after emerged Poa annua because the oil keeps the herbicides from drying and forming a non absorbing crystal on the surface of the weed.
The best carrier for using 2,4-D or Crossbow on brush is biodiesel. Biodiesel is methylated seed oil without the emulsifiers to enable mixing with water. Of course, it is excellent at penetrating through bark, carrying whatever was mixed with it.
The best carrier for using 2,4-D or Crossbow on brush is biodiesel. Biodiesel is methylated seed oil without the emulsifiers to enable mixing with water. Of course, it is excellent at penetrating through bark, carrying whatever was mixed with it.
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Thanks @Greendoc . I know I have veered the topic slightly away from Clesius but this info might be applicable to those doing off label use for poa.
I am doing the syngenta prodiamine, simazine, and monument approach for my winter pre-em, with very good results. Is there any value in splitting that into either two or three seperate apps, and including an MSO instead of the NIS I used previously with the monument and simazine/princep?
I am doing the syngenta prodiamine, simazine, and monument approach for my winter pre-em, with very good results. Is there any value in splitting that into either two or three seperate apps, and including an MSO instead of the NIS I used previously with the monument and simazine/princep?
If I were going to be applying Celsius or any other Sulfonylurea herbicide to an off label or less than susceptible weed, I would be making the tank mix with MSO. Reason why is that I am more likely to get a substantial kill with that vs a NIS.
When I apply Prodiamine, it is normally by itself or with something I need to water in right away. I am not comfortable leaving preemergents not watered into the soil. Now for your program, the Prodiamine would be by itself and then watered in. Now for the Simazine and Monument, that calls for MSO. Simazine and Atrazine becomes a postemergent when applied with oil. Again, this is how it is used in corn fields. When Simazine was legal for use in Hawaii on lawns, I would apply it with either COC or MSO to emerged weeds to kill them during grow in from plugs or sprigs. For your usage, that and Monument would become an effective application against Poa annua and emerged broadleaf weeds.
Do you use Speedzone? I do. If Speedzone becomes part of the application, I skip adding MSO to the mix. Speedzone is formulated with COC. That is part of why it works so well. A lot is being added to the mix as well. If I were to apply 2,4-D ester to a lawn, I only need 1/2 oz per 1000 sq ft, Dicamba as Banvel, only a 1/2 teaspoon, Carfentrazone, as Quicksilver, 1 ML or else 1/5th of a teaspoon. That leaves about 1/2 oz of volume for COC. I only use Speedzone from November til May. After that, I need to think about vaporization of the 2.,4-D and damage to the lawn.
When I apply Prodiamine, it is normally by itself or with something I need to water in right away. I am not comfortable leaving preemergents not watered into the soil. Now for your program, the Prodiamine would be by itself and then watered in. Now for the Simazine and Monument, that calls for MSO. Simazine and Atrazine becomes a postemergent when applied with oil. Again, this is how it is used in corn fields. When Simazine was legal for use in Hawaii on lawns, I would apply it with either COC or MSO to emerged weeds to kill them during grow in from plugs or sprigs. For your usage, that and Monument would become an effective application against Poa annua and emerged broadleaf weeds.
Do you use Speedzone? I do. If Speedzone becomes part of the application, I skip adding MSO to the mix. Speedzone is formulated with COC. That is part of why it works so well. A lot is being added to the mix as well. If I were to apply 2,4-D ester to a lawn, I only need 1/2 oz per 1000 sq ft, Dicamba as Banvel, only a 1/2 teaspoon, Carfentrazone, as Quicksilver, 1 ML or else 1/5th of a teaspoon. That leaves about 1/2 oz of volume for COC. I only use Speedzone from November til May. After that, I need to think about vaporization of the 2.,4-D and damage to the lawn.
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