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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Celebration sod has been down two weeks. I'm looking for some solid advice on how to care/treat it the rest of this first season. I know no pre-e for the first year. But really looking to learn how care for the new sod should differ from that of a mature lawn. Specific problems/questions I have at this point. There is a section of about 150 sq ft that I was forced to plug b/c I ordered about a half pallet too little of sod. Live and learn.

1. My yard (and whole neighborhood) has struggled with wild violets and nutsedge. Despite my best efforts at killing it all, I currently have nutsedge coming up through the sod in one section. Wild violets haven't been a problem yet except in the area that I plugged. I'm currently spot treating the wild violets and nutsedge with sulfentrazone. Is this the right route? How often should I spray? Better to go out daily and treat new weeds or go out once a week?

2. When should I back off from watering and go to a more infrequent/deeper regime? Am I still generally watering twice daily but the last two days have just watered once. Feels like all the sod has rooted at this point.

3. I put down Dr. Earth Lawn Fert (https://drearth.com/products/lawn-food/super-natural-lawn-fertilizer/) before laying (May 26). What should my fert schedule look like for the rest of this summer? Should I fertilize monthly? More often? Recs on what type of fert to put down?

4. A couple of pieces of sod had what appears to be crabgrass in it. Should I also spot treat this with an herbicide?

5. Should I treat the area I plugged any different than the rest of the newly sodded area, or just treat it the same?

Thanks in advance for all the help!
 

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Bermudagrass, 3.75 acres, Arkansas
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mrigney said:
...I know no pre-e for the first year...
I don't know if I would go that far. The Prodiamine 65 WDG label just says:

2. Do not harvest treated sod within 90 days of application. To avoid turfgrass injury, do not apply
to newly set sod until the sod has rooted and exposed edges have filled in.
So I would for sure make a fall application... maybe sooner, if you anticipate some late summer weed pressure.
 

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Tifgrand—7,500 sq/ft—Baroness LM56
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mrigney said:
My Celebration sod has been down two weeks. I'm looking for some solid advice on how to care/treat it the rest of this first season. I know no pre-e for the first year. But really looking to learn how care for the new sod should differ from that of a mature lawn. Specific problems/questions I have at this point. There is a section of about 150 sq ft that I was forced to plug b/c I ordered about a half pallet too little of sod. Live and learn.

1. My yard (and whole neighborhood) has struggled with wild violets and nutsedge. Despite my best efforts at killing it all, I currently have nutsedge coming up through the sod in one section. Wild violets haven't been a problem yet except in the area that I plugged. I'm currently spot treating the wild violets and nutsedge with sulfentrazone. Is this the right route? How often should I spray? Better to go out daily and treat new weeds or go out once a week?

2. When should I back off from watering and go to a more infrequent/deeper regime? Am I still generally watering twice daily but the last two days have just watered once. Feels like all the sod has rooted at this point.

3. I put down Dr. Earth Lawn Fert (https://drearth.com/products/lawn-food/super-natural-lawn-fertilizer/) before laying (May 26). What should my fert schedule look like for the rest of this summer? Should I fertilize monthly? More often? Recs on what type of fert to put down?

4. A couple of pieces of sod had what appears to be crabgrass in it. Should I also spot treat this with an herbicide?

5. Should I treat the area I plugged any different than the rest of the newly sodded area, or just treat it the same?

Thanks in advance for all the help!
I'll try to answer these as best I can, if you feel like a follow up question(s) feel free!

1. What is the specific herbicide you are using with sulfentrazone? I think I would spray every 2 weeks so you can see the weeds that are dying and only spray the "healthy" ones.

2. You can back off from watering once the sod has rooted. Go out and gently try to pull the sod up by hand and if you can't pull it up easily then it has set roots and you can start backing off the watering gradually. Maybe once a day for the next week or two and then get on a regular schedule.

3. I would fertilize monthly until the end of the season. What are your options for purchasing fertilizer in your area? Big box stores or Site One and the like? Are you wanting to go organic or synthetic?

4. I think once the sod has rooted you should be safe to use some herbicide to kill the broadleaf and grassy weeds. I would recommend Celsius it will kill damn near everything except sedges.

5. I would treat the plugged area just the same but it may need a little extra water since they are smaller than the pieces of sod.

I think you would be plenty safe to put a PreM down come this fall right before dormancy as the turf will have matured by then. The reason I would hold off until then is that it may effect the stolons from spreading and setting to help fill in any small gaps that there might be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the answers, mq.

1. Right now I"m just using a spray bottle of Ortho Nutsedge Killer. Not because I have any affinity to it, but it was quick and easy to pick up on the way home from work. Getting some pretty good/quick kill on the violets and sedge I sprayed day before yesterday.

2. Sod is well rooted pretty much everywhere, so I'll start backing off.

3. So I've seen people mention Site One on here. Had no clue if one was around. Looks like there is..probably a 15-20 minute drive from my house, so yes, looks like Site One is an option. I've never been to one. More product selection? I'd probably lean organic, but am not tied to going completely organic on my grass (try to on my vegetables). I would like to build soil health for the long haul, so some organic mixed with synthetic would be an option. I guess I'm saying if there are relatively equal options I'd go organic. If that's not possible to get the most out of the yard, I'm willing to do synthetics also, as long as it's not at the sake of destroying the long term health of the soil or creating a short-term fix that won't serve me well in the longer run. So yeah...I guess recommendations? I'm open to anything at this point:)

4. I've seen Celsius mentioned around here, too. Never heard of it. That good, eh? Do you use it for spot treating? Broadcast over the entire yard? I see in the link that it is a wettable granule. I don't have a backpack sprayer...what're my options? Could I use something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...44f1-5bc5-9af1-093de55d6b30&pf_rd_i=492090011? Or even better, would it be worth the investment in a backpack sprayer? Any recommendations that won't break the bank?

Two people now say yes to pre-e this fall. Prodiamine seems to be the go to. The Prodiamine 65 WDG is another wettable granule. I guess same question as above. Are there non-wettable granule versions of Prodiamine that you recommend? Or is it just worth it if I want to keep the lawn top notch to go ahead and get the backpack sprayer to spray with?
 

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Yes, Celsius and Prodiamine are that good. I don't have a lick of crabgrass this year thanks to the prodiamine, and never had any last year either. You broadcast the prodiamine pre-emergent over the whole yard to act as a weed germination barrier. The Celsius is spot sprayed only where you need it. Both the $65 for Prodiamine and the $100 for Celsius are WAY cheaper than hose end products or granular spreadable products. The price per app is cheaper and their effectiveness is much better. You end up needed less chemicals.

You'll want a decent sprayer setup, but again, there are lots of options, and the costs outweigh the lack of having some good equipment. I use a one gallon pump sprayer for Celsius spot spraying, and an Earthway S15 for prodiamine, PGR, Iron, etc, over the whole yard. I don't actually recommend the S15, but there are other options, like a backpack, or a push sprayer, like this or this.

SiteOne is a pro landscaper place. I love it - good synthetic chemicals and fertilizer options. There is a rub or two. They aren't always open to the unwashed masses (non-contractors) 9-5. Also, they can be pushy if you aren't knowledgeable about what you want. SiteOne and similar stores aren't for hemming and hawing and dawdling about what you need. Know what you want, get in, and get out. "I need a bottle of Celsius, some NIS, tracker dye, a box of Certainty, and these gloves. Thanks"
 
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