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So it was the nuts on the brass lever that tightens down drive shaft and helps engage the clutch that were loose causing the chain to slip. My clutch was engaging even though it was disengaged. Once I got those nuts tightened all was good!
JML said:
Erickson89 said:
The chain on the drum roller has been slipping off. It's happening when I turn the machine around to make the next pass. I'm still learning to not tilt the machine back slightly to make the turn so I can only assume the drum is hitting the ground and causing tension/lateral force on the chain.

Any idea why this would be happening and what I can do to fix it?
Sounds like 2 different issues. First sounds like the bolts holding the drum in place have loosened and the drum is sliding forward. Loosen these, pull back on the drum till the chain is tight, ensure it's parallel and re-tighten.



The drum dragging is due to the drum lift chain being too long. You can either use some sting zip ties, some people have used a long skinny bolt/nuts, or they make an adapter. Just take up a couple links and you should be good. It's more likely to occur when cutting at a very high HOC because the front roller/casters have caused the mower to be higher in the front (pitched back) and the drive drum no longer fully off the ground when lifted.

 

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Anyone know the exact height of cut measurements for a '95 commercial mower with a roller attached? I'm having a hell of a time measuring it and not seeing information on the older commercial mowers. Thank you in advance.
 

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I just bought my first reel mower, CT used 20" homeowner with a B&S engine and 5 blades (I live in the PNW with cool season grass). Based on the serial number it is a '78, but is in good condition despite being 44 years old. That said, I'm starting to think about routine maintenance such as frequency of lubing bearings and such and am looking for guidance on where the lube points are.
 

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Hi all, considering a cal trimmer for my lawn. 2 questions.

Can the cal trimmer classic 20" be used as a push mower in tight spots that need slower and more movability?

I have just under 1k sq ft. Lawn. Is it even work it to get one of these or should I just get a manual push reel mower?
 

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Steely said:
Yes, with my 1985 HO model I can manually push the mower as needed. I often times do this on my perimeter pass without the rear wheel drum engaged or dropped.
Mine is the same year but commercial, and I do this as well. Do you notice that pushing it results in it cutting a little lower? I have wiggle room at the bracket for the front roller
 

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If I set the HOC under 3/4" the sides are dragging. With the drive wheel raised up its scraping to a point where it won't even free roll down the drive. I really want to reset HOC to maintain at 3/4", but that means I need to get to the 5/8" level to reset first.

Any ideas why it's doing this? According the manual I should be able to now under a half inch and that's definitely not happening how it's set right now.

Thank you all in advance for the help!
 

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In early April of this year (2022), I purchased the California Trimmer Reel Mower (Honda GX120 Engine) 20-inch, with the roller attachment. I bought it new and have mowed for a total of 9.5 hours. I am still a somewhat inexperienced user. I mow with the blade at a height of 1.5 inches (from a level surface to the bottom of the spinning blades).
I am finally getting used to the fact that the only effective way to move the mower is at full power with the blade spinning. I tip the mower up so the blade doesn't hit the driveway etc.

I have questions on the following issues:
1. I use only ethanol-free gas in the mower. I always run with the throttle lever on full power. The mower consistently stalls
when I go over a 2-inch diameter hole.

2. The mower often stalls when I mow along the side of a mild gradient (with left side higher than right). Anybody else
experience this?

3. I live in Georgia and have Zeon Zoysia grass that has grown nice and thick this summer. I do not apply any growth
inhibitors on the grass, so it grows pretty fast. I have to mow every 4-5 days. I have to go over the thick parts twice or it
looks sloppy. Anyone else have to do this? I overlap a lot on each row, but I still have to go back over many of the
strips.

4. How often should the trimmer "blade" be sharpened?

5. Despite me tightening the gas cap until it clicks and filling the tank only ¾ full, it seems like the gas leaks out of the top a
little bit. Not sure why. Does anyone else have this issue?
 

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Cody_S said:
If I set the HOC under 3/4" the sides are dragging. With the drive wheel raised up its scraping to a point where it won't even free roll down the drive. I really want to reset HOC to maintain at 3/4", but that means I need to get to the 5/8" level to reset first.

Any ideas why it's doing this? According the manual I should be able to now under a half inch and that's definitely not happening how it's set right now.

Thank you all in advance for the help!
You need to move the front roller/wheels to the highest hole setting.
 

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I was cutting with my cal trimmer today the rod that goes through the middle of the smooth roller got caught on a metal edging strip and got pulled out just enough so the roller fell out of place. Has that happened to anyone? I managed to get the roller reassembled, but in the process noticed there is nothing on the HOC adjustment side preventing the rod from getting pulled out. Am I missing something? How can I prevent that from happening again. I see on the new grooved roller there is clearly a pin on the HOC adjustment side.
 

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ntoben said:
Slim 1938 said:
ntoben said:
Anyone here running a 25" commercial?
I am.
How do you like it? And why did you choose that over a 20?
Sorry for late reply, been on the road. I chose the 25 basically to cover more ground quickly. My front and backyard are big rectangles and fairly flat with a small slope on one end. It works great. Mine has a Honda engine and a smooth front roller.





 

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What is your HOC? I am starting to believe I need to go way lower next year with my CT to avoid tire marks.

Slim 1938 said:
ntoben said:
Slim 1938 said:
How do you like it? And why did you choose that over a 20?
Sorry for late reply, been on the road. I chose the 25 basically to cover more ground quickly. My front and backyard are big rectangles and fairly flat with a small slope on one end. It works great. Mine has a Honda engine and a smooth front roller.





 
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