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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I had some browning of blades and I also noticed that some ends appeared to be frayed. I thought it was maybe the "pause" but other lawns don't have that appearance now. It's been almost two weeks. I just sharpened the mower blades so I didn't know what the frayed ends would mean. Any thoughts?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nomo said:
How much of the blade did you take off? Cutting too much off at once may cause that if mulching.
I always follow the 1/3rd rule. I went from 3.5" to 3.0" about two weeks ago and mulched. It was thick so I had to double cut to avoid clumping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
j4c11 said:
Did the fraying appear after you sharpened the blades?
I want to say close to it. The blades are always sharp but recently I really got them sharper. I sharpen my blades probably 8x+ this year already. I was trying to keep them razor sharp to help with disease and holding in moisture.
 

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Lawndad said:
j4c11 said:
Did the fraying appear after you sharpened the blades?
I want to say close to it. ...
Something to watch for if you sharpen your lawn mower blade and the cut seems worse afterwards is that it's possible that the blade may have accidentally been re-installed upside down so that it cuts with the back (unsharpened) side of the blade. (Been there, done that...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ken-n-nancy said:
Lawndad said:
j4c11 said:
Did the fraying appear after you sharpened the blades?
I want to say close to it. ...
Something to watch for if you sharpen your lawn mower blade and the cut seems worse afterwards is that it's possible that the blade may have accidentally been re-installed upside down so that it cuts with the back (unsharpened) side of the blade. (Been there, done that...)
The funny thing is that happened to me last week. I made a pass and it didn't look cut. I flipped it on its side and realized just that. That's what I get for rushing that day. 🙄
 

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A couple of possibilities:
A blade can be too sharp. Razor sharp, especially if the cutting edge angle is changed by sharpening can cause the edge to bend over and present a blunt edge to the grass causing tearing rather than cutting. (simplest cure is purchasing a new blade)
Engine speed. An engine running at less than max RPM (3200-3600) can cause tearing, particularly on a thick lawn (btw-that is a beautiful thick lawn you have). My HRR214 has developed an annoying habit with the throttle slowly backing off of max during the course of a mow. Also moving the mower too quickly through the lawn can give the same effect as the mower engine running at less than max revs.
Less likely: I've read that some nutrient levels can cause turf blade cell structural issues (making the blade tough?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ridgerunner said:
A couple of possibilities:
A blade can be too sharp. Razor sharp, especially if the cutting edge angle is changed by sharpening can cause the edge to bend over and present a blunt edge to the grass causing tearing rather than cutting. (simplest cure is purchasing a new blade)
Engine speed. An engine running at less than max RPM (3200-3600) can cause tearing, particularly on a thick lawn (btw-that is a beautiful thick lawn you have). My HRR214 has developed an annoying habit with the throttle slowly backing off of max during the course of a mow. Also moving the mower too quickly through the lawn can give the same effect as the mower engine running at less than max revs.
Less likely: I've read that some nutrient levels can cause turf blade cell structural issues (making the blade tough?).
Sounds good. I'll get the blade professionally sharpened and balanced rather than me using a wheel grinder trying to achieve that 30° angle and I'll increase the rpm's on thr mower. Hopefully that should do it. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Remember that "professional" can be pretty subjective. I was a lawn mower shop that employs a jig to hold the blade at the proper angle, not that there aren't people who might be experienced enough to free hand it. I'd just rather not take the chance of having the kid who sweeps up sharpening my blade free hand. I recommend a new blade as that way you can insure that the blade is not the issue and you can never have enough blades. :)
I'm sure you know this, but don't adjust or disable the governor for fear of exceeding safety tolerances, just make sure that the throttle lever is positioned for maximum RPM, if not, adjust. Dirty air filters or carbs can cause reduced RPMs too.
Hope you get it worked out, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ridgerunner said:
Remember that "professional" can be pretty subjective. I was a lawn mower shop that employs a jig to hold the blade at the proper angle, not that there aren't people who might be experienced enough to free hand it. I'd just rather not take the chance of having the kid who sweeps up sharpening my blade free hand. I recommend a new blade as that way you can insure that the blade is not the issue and you can never have enough blades. :)
I'm sure you know this, but don't adjust or disable the governor for fear of exceeding safety tolerances, just make sure that the throttle lever is positioned for maximum RPM, if not, adjust. Dirty air filters or carbs can cause reduced RPMs too.
Hope you get it worked out, good luck.
Thanks for those tips. I appreciate it. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ridgerunner said:
N.P. Hope you find a cure.
For the record, I have never been a lawn mower shop, nor have I played one on TV. "use" not "was". Brain fart.
:lol: I got ya.

Before I had signed on and read your last post I did take my blade to a local sharpening center. I have the Honda mower with the two blade system and it costs about $12 to have them sharpened. The guy does do a great job better than when you buy one IMO because you don't have that duller painted edge on a brand new blade. After sharpening, he balances them too. All in all I eliminated the dull blade theory and I have applied now 2 doses of the Fall nitrogen program. It has improved but not the way that I would like it. The mechanic at the center is a certified Honda mechanic and he said I can increase the RMP's by moving the spring back to the 2nd hole without needed a tachometer to check it. :mrgreen:
 
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