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Bermuda Multi Treatment - Chemical Compatibility?

958 views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Turf Surfer  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I’m new to Bermuda Hybrid turf. I have a new construction home and been reading up on how to correct my lawn. I’m forming a plan on doing a multi purpose application and was curious if there are any recommendations or obvious ‘don’ts’. How should it be watered in immediately and over time? Rates I should increase/decrease? Reactive chemical concerns with combinations of active ingredients?

I’m going to apply the following per thousand sqft of turf:

Granular - GrubEx 2.87lbs(0.08% Chlorantraniliprole)
Granular - DiseaseEx 2lbs(0.31% Azoxystrobin)
Granular - Fungus control 2.04lbs(0.51% Propiconazole)
Granular - Humichar 4lbs
Liquid - bug b gone(0.3% Bifenthein 0.075% Zeta-Cypermethrin)
Liquid - green pop starter fertilizer
 
#2 · (Edited)
What is all the fungicide for, what are trying to control or prevent? What do you have that Azoxy won‘t prevent but PPZ will? PPZ is hard on Bermuda, especially when it is hot. As far as Azoxy, if soil borne you water in, if foliar then no water.

What is bug b gone for? Ants and such you don’t water in, mole crickets you do.

As far as how much, the label states that.

it seems you are going to throw down everything that you can find. Best to determine what the issues are and then determine what needs to be done. Sometimes less you do the better off you are.
 
#4 ·
I get to use a recent quote I stole from this forum...

Water, sunlight, nitrogen, and mow. If you get bored and want to apply something else, don't! Go mow again.

That especially runs true for GreenPop and Humichar. If you are seeing issues in the turf, take a photo and post it here. We can help identify the issue so that you are not throwing everything but the kitchen sink at it.
 
#6 ·
Look like he needs a good weed kill, nitrogen, pre-emergent, and a regular mowing.
^^^^^^THIS!^^^^^^

My first action would be scalp as low as possible while collecting the clippings. Apply .25lbs N/1000sf with Ammonium Sulfate or Urea every week for the first month. Mix it with Prodiamine and water as needed. Mow every 4 days whether it needs it or not.
 
#7 ·
Yep, basically throwing down everything I can plus the kitchen sink. I blanket sprayed Certainty and Celsius for weeds last Saturday. I had the yard aerated a month ago. I will go light on the fungus spray application, thank you. As long as it doesn’t hurt the lawn… let’s see what can happen!

New construction home that sat on the market for almost a year. The tiny yard was mostly dirt, then mostly green with more weeds than grass and now I may be slightly passed the point of more grass than weeds.
 
#8 ·
Everything should be compatible, just know that granular fungicides are not as easy to apply foliarly as liquid since you're basically trying to stick the granule onto a wet leaf instead of spraying it onto a leaf.

FYI, if you haven't already purchased it, you can skip the humichar (there's very little evidence of turf response from humic or humic substances, most soils are fine for turf grass establishment) and as for liquid fertilizer, you can switch to the cheapest high nitrogen fertilizer you can find (liquid is rarely superior to basic urea and cost significantly more). Most turfs have sufficient nutrients with the exception of nitrogen, iron and sulfur in Texas, so you may want to use AMS as your nitrogen source and apply foliar iron/ micros every once in a while for the best appearance.

I recommend you read this (if you haven't already): https://www.thelawnforum.com/thread...le-the-new-testament.1651/?post_id=30491&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-30491

Your primary focus when starting out should be on putting down .5-1 lb of nitrogen a month, making sure your lawn gets at least 1" of water a week through irrigation or rain, mowing the yard frequently (weekly or more frequent depending on cutting height) at the appropriate height (1-2" for common Bermuda or 1" to as low as .5" for hybrid / sod varieties), then eliminating or reducing weed pressure by applying pre-emergents and herbicides at the right time and under the correct conditions. The very last thing you need to worry about is soil health. It's the most complex to resolve and often the least likely cause of turf problems.