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Bentgrass Lawn Success Stories? Looking For Advice - 7B - New Jersey

2.3K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  supa  
#1 ·
I am in Zone 7b, New Jersey with just shy of 10k sq.ft of lawn and have been cutting at a 4" HOC with irrigation this summer thinking I had mostly TTTF. We've had quite some heat here 90*F+ days, high humidity, and noticed sections of the lawn browning out. Before mowing the other day I spent some time realizing that the Jonathan Green Black Beauty Ultra I overseeded with last fall that looked beautiful after dethatching and aerating was outcompeted by Creeping Bentgrass. At least that's what I think it is. Some areas are browned out, others are green, but all are thick layers of carpet. I took the HOC down to 3.5" thinking that would help stand the grass up more, but the Bentgrass is a solid 8"+ if I run my hand through it and pull up even after mowing since it lays down flat. Most of the stolons are brown and dry and the tips are green. Most of the "thatch" I removed last year must have been bentgrass.

In my ~48 hours of research since learning about all this it seems like most people try to remove it either with Tenacity to save what lawn they have, or glyphosate and start over while still having to reapply Tenacity for years later due to the Bentgrass' resilience. The other reading materials I see is for golf course green management where it is used positively and grown.

My lawn is not level, and is bumpy. I currently own two rotary mowers and no reel mowers. A self propelled with a minimum HOC of ~1.8" a Honda HRR model, and a John Deere E130 with a ~1" HOC. From what I've read so far even the 1" HOC is not low enough for Bentgrass.

At this point whatever path I take seems like it is going to take some hard work, time, money, and chemical applications to fix. Whether that is nuking the lawn, treating existing with tenacity for years while overseeding, or trying to turn 10k sq.ft into a golf course level HOC.

Has anyone had any successful experience with Bentgrass here? I am going to continue my search on this site, but it seems everything so far is horror stories.

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#3 ·
Thank you for the reply. I'm gonna have to do some more research, but I'm thinking it's going to be cheaper/easier to do a full reno at this point versus tenacity as the bentgrass is everywhere.

I have a small, level area that is primarily bentgrass at this point ~600sq.ft. Do you think the existing bentgrass could be gradually taken from 3.5-4" down to sub 1" over the next few months into the fall? Not sure how it will fare, but at this point I have little to lose.
 
#4 ·
Here at my own house (NJ) bentgrass is a weed. I used tenacity and hand pulling to clear a lot of it. I see a couple spots right now that have popped up in other places, but its mostly controlled.

At my father in law's house in PA, he has practically a full bentgrass lawn. Not by choice mind you. The last seed he put down was 30 years ago. He cuts to 'abusive' heights with a ride on tractor when he gets around to it. When I was there last winter I noticed how green his grass was despite it being 30-something degrees and middle of winter. After looking a little closer, most of it was bentgrass. I'm going to tell you that its possible to have a bentgrass lawn cut to 2". In his case, he has a stream running through the back yard and the entire yard is generally soft due to the high water table. BG needs a lot of water. And it like shade (probably because of the extra water). In your case, I would take whichever of your mowers has the must suction/lift and start cutting your 600 sqft at 1.5-2". Feed it, water it, cut it weekly or more. Give it a month of that and if it turns around to what you want then great. If not, you still have time for a renovation this fall.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for the reply and a bit of hope regarding your father in law's lawn. Wouldn't be my first choice either, but going to see if I can work with what I've got before making any drastic changes. The more I learn about lawn care the more I dislike what I have.

I am located at the bottom of a hill, have a creek across the street about 200ft away, high water table. During heavy rains the town's stormwater system is usually overwhelmed and backs up on our street, even backs up into a shared french drain system between multiple properties that has an easement through our property line. Has gotten worse in the past 5-10 years with neighbors on both sides of me cutting down all their trees and seemingly heavier rain events.

I'll start using that small section as a test area and see how it goes.
 
#7 ·
Do you think I'm wasting time trying to bring this test strip down to 1-2" gradually versus scalping and maintaining that height? My Honda HRR has .5" increments and the JD Rider does .25" increments. Been two days since last mow with the push at 3.5", was planning on either tonight or tomorrow bringing it down again an increment have to get the bagger on the ride on.

Most of my lawn is full sun 8+ hours a day. The one section that is lowest and is most shaded (4-6hrs of sun) looks the best out of my entire property, but stays very soft and is majority bentgrass. I put down about .5" of water every 3 days of so with irrigation using Rachio controller which I've had to dial in over the past year of ownership. Had to start manually running some zones during the past month as it couldn't keep up in the heatwave due to forecasted precipitation that never came. Learned a lot about how poor my coverage and efficiency was. Did a mason jar test on the front lawn came out with silty loam. Might as well do do another one in this backyard area. It conversely has the best irrigation coverage.

This is a better photo of test area last Labor Day weekend (2023) for planned dethatch/aerate/overseed with JG Black Beauty Ultra. This was after lowering to ~2" HOC bagged and then running over with dethatcher at lowest setting in a cross hatch pattern. Thought it was thatch and the time, but now realizing it was probably just all the bentgrass which I guess was thatch since I had a 4" HOC all summer. Looked great last fall, but has been all but completely overtaken by the bentgrass again. I may have actually done the bentgrass a favor by doing all that.

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#8 ·
If its fully bentgrass there, then I would take it straight down to 1.5-2" like I said above and then feed it. When you cut it you're going to get into the crowns quickly but it will grow back quickly, especiall if you feed it. You're going to need at least a month of steady cuts at the height you know what you're working with. I'd go straight there now.

On the flip side, you have a very small area right there which has irrigation. Its a perfect candidate for a renovation. If the bentgrass doesn't work you can easily renovat that with minimal effort.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the encouragement and info.

Took it down to 1.75" this evening with the Honda rotary bagging it all. It has one more lower setting which is 1.125", but don't think the area is as level as I thought to try that. Tried the ride on mower first with bagger, but too much material to get it up the chute. Put down .6lb/1ksq.ft of Milorganite since I saw that recommended in the Cool Season Lawn Guide here. Not sure if that was the right move or not.

I guess we will wait and see what happens. Height of cut looks nice even though the grass doesn't. Would be nice to see it thrive. If I screwed up it's only a small area, albeit right out the kitchen window, and it's that much closer to being ready for a renovation. The front lawn was looking rough after taking it from 3.75" down 3.5" today, really shows where all the bentgrass is when the green comes off the top.

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#10 ·
You need some fast release nitrogen. Milo would have been good to put down 2 months ago but it takes a while to break down. Something like a scotts turfbuilder (not with weed and feed or halts) or straight up urea granules and water whichever one in. I'd put down 1/4# of nitrogen now and then again in a week.

rick