[b0nk3rs]

This is my first time doing anything related to grass seed. Hopefully what I have so far is a good start!

I have been aiming for a Sep 2nd seed down date, but I have been falling behind.

I am located in Central Illinois and my lawn consists of KBG/PRG/Fine Fescue and is 4k sqft. I have chosen the below seed mix to hopefully blend in the reseeded areas with the existing lawn and the left over seed will all be used for overseeding (roughly 2lb/1000). Few pictures of the lawn taken throughout the year and some of the repair work...

[media]http://imgur.com/a/NXiVr[/media]

Seed Mix - 10lb
20% Bewitched KBG
20% Midnight KBG
20% Diva KBG
20% Everest KBG
10% Pangea GLR PRG
10% SR4600 PRG

The plan...

1. Continue removing surface roots from a removed tree and bring down the humps for a more level grade

-Some areas have been filled in up to 12". I have been working to get the soil to settle but not sure if I am too late on this or what my best course of action is.​

2. Continue mowing down to 1.75" and bagging

-I think I can go down to 1.25" but not sure if it's a good idea?​

3. Hand rake thatch
4. Remove tall fescue clumps by digging them out
5. Rake, cultivate, and topsoil many dead/bare/repaired spots
6. Core aerate with double pass
7. Put down Scott's Starter Fertilizer with Tenacity

-Do I put down at bag rate?​

8. Put down Milorganite

-I have seen 5lb/1000 a few places, is this ideal?​

9. Seed
10. Topdress all spots receiving a full reseed with peat moss(approx 200 sqft in total)
11. Water for 5-10 mins 2-3x per day for 3 weeks

-Watering is really my biggest mystery right now, I am still trying to find a setup that works. I have a few more impact sprinklers on the way since the oscillating ones were't covering what I needed.​

12. 6 Weeks after seed down, full Milorganite app

-What is my ideal fert plan for the rest of the fall? I have a bunch of Milorganite so I can go wild with it if necessary.​

I assume I will have to mow a couple times before the KBG germinates in the overseeded areas. I'm okay with not getting any results from the KBG in the overseed, but we will see what happens. The reseeded areas will be untouched until they are ready for their first mowing.

Summary of my questions:
1. Do I need to worry about 12" of soil settling in the hole where the tree was removed?
2. Is 1.25" too low for the final cut?
7. Scott's Starter Fertilizer with Tenacity - Do I use bag rate?
8. Milorganite at seed down - 5lb/1000? Bag rate?
11. Does 15mins 2x per day during germination sound about right? Using oscillating and impact sprinklers.
12. What treatments should I put down the remainder of the fall and when?

I am open to criticism and sugggestions!

 

[g-man]

1) Yes, it will settle more, but how much will depend on the topsoil you used and how you compacted it. Hard to tell. Plan to address this in a couple of years.
2)not at all.
3) I'm not sure what to say about 3.
7) yes.
8) don't use this if you do 7. It would be too much nitrogen and I would make your current grass grow more. That means it shadows the new grass.
11) 15min sounds like too much. The idea is to keep the soil just moist. 5min 3x a day should be the start point to adjust from.
12) Just some light doses of nitrogen (spoon feed) a month or so after germination and as needed. It is hard to tell with an overseed.

 

[b0nk3rs]

1) Yes, it will settle more, but how much will depend on the topsoil you used and how you compacted it. Hard to tell. Plan to address this in a couple of years.
2)not at all.
3) I'm not sure what to say about 3.
7) yes.
8) don't use this if you do 7. It would be too much nitrogen and I would make your current grass grow more. That means it shadows the new grass.
11) 15min sounds like too much. The idea is to keep the soil just moist. 5min 3x a day should be the start point to adjust from.
12) Just some light doses of nitrogen (spoon feed) a month or so after germination and as needed. It is hard to tell with an overseed.

Solid input, thank you!

 

[MarkAguglia]

Curious about #8. I just overseed and did starter fert and Milorgane at seed down. My thinking is that I usually dont see any results for up to 2 weeks with Milo and it'll slowly kick in after germination. The LCN swears by it and I read comments of others saying it works excellent. I'm a newbie, but just throwing it out for conversation.

 

[b0nk3rs]

Curious about #8. I just overseed and did starter fert and Milorgane at seed down. My thinking is that I usually dont see any results for up to 2 weeks with Milo and it'll slowly kick in after germination. The LCN swears by it and I read comments of others saying it works excellent. I'm a newbie, but just throwing it out for conversation.

Probably depends on your situation but being Milo, it's not gonna hurt anything

 

[g-man]

Curious about #8. I just overseed and did starter fert and Milorgane at seed down. My thinking is that I usually dont see any results for up to 2 weeks with Milo and it'll slowly kick in after germination. The LCN swears by it and I read comments of others saying it works excellent. I'm a newbie, but just throwing it out for conversation.

A percent of Milo is water soluble (goes into nitrogen fast). This will push grow of the current lawn. The rest will get broken down and push more grow. You will make your current lawn really nice (starter + Milo). But it sacrifices the establishment of the new seed. In my opinion, you end up happy thinking of a successful overseed because it is green and thick from nitrogen and water, but most likely all you did was make your current lawn look good. I just don't see the need of more nitrogen during the germination. Some background info: https://mdc.itap.purdue.edu/item.asp?item_number=AY-13-W

 

[Eric]

Curious about #8. I just overseed and did starter fert and Milorgane at seed down. My thinking is that I usually dont see any results for up to 2 weeks with Milo and it'll slowly kick in after germination. The LCN swears by it and I read comments of others saying it works excellent. I'm a newbie, but just throwing it out for conversation.

A percent of Milo is water soluble (goes into nitrogen fast). This will push grow of the current lawn. The rest will get broken down and push more grow. You will make your current lawn really nice (starter + Milo). But it sacrifices the establishment of the new seed. In my opinion, you end up happy thinking of a successful overseed because it is green and thick from nitrogen and water, but most likely all you did was make your current lawn look good. I just don't see the need of more nitrogen during the germination. Some background info: https://mdc.itap.purdue.edu/item.asp?item_number=AY-13-W

That article should be a sticky somewhere! Answers the questions to so many topics and questions on here! Thanks G-man

 

[g-man]

Their whole website is really good.

https://turf.purdue.edu/professional.html

Universities spend a lot of time and effort doing research and they post it online. It is always good to look at your local universities since they will have local recommendations. There are areas that we disagree (ie. aerate before overseed), but in general it is good guideline to get a decent lawn.

 

[b0nk3rs]

Curious about #8. I just overseed and did starter fert and Milorgane at seed down. My thinking is that I usually dont see any results for up to 2 weeks with Milo and it'll slowly kick in after germination. The LCN swears by it and I read comments of others saying it works excellent. I'm a newbie, but just throwing it out for conversation.

A percent of Milo is water soluble (goes into nitrogen fast). This will push grow of the current lawn. The rest will get broken down and push more grow. You will make your current lawn really nice (starter + Milo). But it sacrifices the establishment of the new seed. In my opinion, you end up happy thinking of a successful overseed because it is green and thick from nitrogen and water, but most likely all you did was make your current lawn look good. I just don't see the need of more nitrogen during the germination. Some background info: https://mdc.itap.purdue.edu/item.asp?item_number=AY-13-W

Interesting. This says to mow at 1.5" until the new grass has been cut twice. This would be likely 3-4 weeks of mowing at this height. Seems risky?

 

[g-man]

No risk. First this is fall, so there is less heat pressure. Second, you continue to water (slowly reducing the frequency).

 

[b0nk3rs]

I would say my lawn is moderately bumpy in some areas. What is the general consensus on rolling after core aerating?