This looks promising.

 

User @O_Poole posted doing this on his instagram to Poa A in fescue, too.

 

I have and just replied the other day to a question on my overseed process. I also try and do it when I do a full reno.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=380262#p380262

I prefer to use glyphosate to try and kill the roots first and then fry the thousands or even millions of left over viable poa seeds as a last step before seeding. I haven't read any studies or trials but assume if the seed farms use it, there must be benefits, those that are allowed to anymore that is.

For small spots I use a small handheld torch vs. the weed dragon torch.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Multi-Purpose-Trigger-Start-Torch-Head/50126421

 

The after math. I did this while it was wet out hoping the water worked be a buffer to the good grass.

 

I have and just replied the other day to a question on my overseed process. I also try and do it when I do a full reno.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=380262#p380262

I prefer to use glyphosate to try and kill the roots first and then fry the thousands or even millions of left over viable poa seeds as a last step before seeding. I haven't read any studies or trials but assume if the seed farms use it, there must be benefits, those that are allowed to anymore that is.

For small spots I use a small handheld torch vs. the weed dragon torch.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Multi-Purpose-Trigger-Start-Torch-Head/50126421

How strong do you mix the glyphosate?

 

I just pull it. Pulled a ton over the last weekend and my arms and legs are killing me. I bought a weed puller which made it easier but POA A is a bitch no matter what.

 

I have and just replied the other day to a question on my overseed process. I also try and do it when I do a full reno.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=380262#p380262

I prefer to use glyphosate to try and kill the roots first and then fry the thousands or even millions of left over viable poa seeds as a last step before seeding. I haven't read any studies or trials but assume if the seed farms use it, there must be benefits, those that are allowed to anymore that is.

For small spots I use a small handheld torch vs. the weed dragon torch.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Multi-Purpose-Trigger-Start-Torch-Head/50126421

How strong do you mix the glyphosate?

Depends on if I want to kill everything where I spray or when I hope to knock down just the poa annua and give the FF a chance to rebound. I tend to go on the bottom range of label recommendations even for the full kill and much lower when attempting to keep as much FF alive as possible while still stunting the Poa annua. You are on your own if you want to try low dosages and I haven't checked if studies have been done on TTTF but there have been a few studies on low level applications, here are a couple paragraphs from an article I had bookmarked. (Link below)

The fine fescue taxa have also shown tolerance to varying rates of glyphosate, which could provide an effective option for control of broadleaf and grassy weeds - including annual bluegrass - in low maintenance golf course areas or potentially more intensively managed fine fescue areas (1) (see Table 1, Recommended taxonomic classification, characteristics and rankings of the five fine fescue taxa).

Recently, researchers at Virginia Tech reported that all five fine fescue taxa are inherently tolerant of glyphosate at rates below 0.62 pound/acre (0.7 kilogram/hectare), with hard fescue being the most tolerant, followed by sheep fescue, strong creeping red fescue, slender creeping red fescue and Chewings fescue (Table 1) (1). Other researchers (8, 10) had previously reported similar glyphosate tolerance in fine fescues, specifically hard fescue. Applying glyphosate at low rates is one of many weed control options in fine fescues, and care should be taken when using glyphosate, as herbicide resistance may develop over time. Additional research is required on this topic to investigate turf safety under different environmental and golf course management conditions.


© GCM and a list of contributors noted in the below link.

https://www.gcmonline.com/tags/fine-fescue-diseases-pests

 

I just pull it. Pulled a ton over the last weekend and my arms and legs are killing me. I bought a weed puller which made it easier but POA A is a b---- no matter what.

I have been use a tool to pull as well. The areas that had a ton without much of my tall fescue I torched. I dont recall seeing this much. Its horrible. All throughout my yard

 

Bad thing is when I pull it out from in front of my mulch bed it's pulling out my grass with it. It's a lot shorter there. It's so hard for me to get grass to grow there. Think it's compacted I just aerated it today.

 

This is my first time dealing with poa annua. Also in Missouri with fescue. I've been pulling up the obvious spots and bag mowing every 3-4 days. Luckily, it's only sparse in my recent lawn reno area. Did you reseed or reno last fall? It is interesting to see how prevalent poa a and t have been this spring.

I plan to pre em the reno area this fall and spring. The few areas that need reseeding will instead get Scotts Starter Fertilizer w/Mesotrione, Tenacity 30 days post germination or after a couple mowings, then wait another month to put down a pre em. Pull up whatever is white and doesn't look like baby fescue. I have seen this suggestion on the forums but am wondering how the 2 month old grass would handle the pre em.

There is also Poa Constrictor, which seems to have mixed results here and the even more expensive Xonerate. You could always kill, fallow, reseed, etc.
Though, I care more about time vs cost. If poa annua becomes a problem down the line, I'll just buy Xonerate and do a 4-6 way split. From what I've read, it seems to be fairly effective.

 

Anyone torch triv? Wondering if torching after gly would get any living stolons. Im pretty much willing to try anything.

 

This is my first time dealing with poa annua. Also in Missouri with fescue. I've been pulling up the obvious spots and bag mowing every 3-4 days. Luckily, it's only sparse in my recent lawn reno area. Did you reseed or reno last fall? It is interesting to see how prevalent poa a and t have been this spring.

I plan to pre em the reno area this fall and spring. The few areas that need reseeding will instead get Scotts Starter Fertilizer w/Mesotrione, Tenacity 30 days post germination or after a couple mowings, then wait another month to put down a pre em. Pull up whatever is white and doesn't look like baby fescue. I have seen this suggestion on the forums but am wondering how the 2 month old grass would handle the pre em.

There is also Poa Constrictor, which seems to have mixed results here and the even more expensive Xonerate. You could always kill, fallow, reseed, etc.
Though, I care more about time vs cost. If poa annua becomes a problem down the line, I'll just buy Xonerate and do a 4-6 way split. From what I've read, it seems to be fairly effective.

I did seed with a slit seeder but there are other areas that didn't have any and some had very little. I'm thinking the places that it went crazy on was due to slit seeder and I had a few previously. But I aerated last spring and 2 springs ago but I don't recall having nf a lot of that I can remember.

How much is Xonerate? I'm thinking round up and torch seeds. It went crazy by my driveway. I do remember it always having issues there though.

 

Xonerate is $600 plus. Very expensive so would split and only use to spot spray. But the more I think about it the more this seems impractical. If one's poa annua is really bad, probably just full reno. Unless money is truly not an issue.

For now, I'll stick with pulling, bagging the clippings and a fall pre em. My poa spots are in full sun. I mean sun up to sun down in an open field, so hopefully it can be contained.

 

This is my first time dealing with poa annua. Also in Missouri with fescue. I've been pulling up the obvious spots and bag mowing every 3-4 days. Luckily, it's only sparse in my recent lawn reno area. Did you reseed or reno last fall? It is interesting to see how prevalent poa a and t have been this spring.

I plan to pre em the reno area this fall and spring. The few areas that need reseeding will instead get Scotts Starter Fertilizer w/Mesotrione, Tenacity 30 days post germination or after a couple mowings, then wait another month to put down a pre em. Pull up whatever is white and doesn't look like baby fescue. I have seen this suggestion on the forums but am wondering how the 2 month old grass would handle the pre em.

There is also Poa Constrictor, which seems to have mixed results here and the even more expensive Xonerate. You could always kill, fallow, reseed, etc.
Though, I care more about time vs cost. If poa annua becomes a problem down the line, I'll just buy Xonerate and do a 4-6 way split. From what I've read, it seems to be fairly effective.

What exactly is the the 4-6 way split?
Thank you.

 

I still have some of Xonerate left if some one interest i can share few oz.